Designers, forecasters and other fashion insiders got a good look at fabrics and overall textile trends at the two big seasonal fabric shows that just took place in New York: Messe Frankfurt’s enormous Texworld USA, which concluded its three-day run at the Javits Center yesterday, and Première Vision, a significantly smaller show that ran for two days last week at Pier 94. As always, both shows featured a very broad international array of exhibitors and offered their guidance and loads of additional information about what’s driving the new season forward.
With more than 800 exhibitors from all over the world, Texworld covered five large halls in the lower level of the convention center and was divided into three sections/sub-shows: Texworld USA, Apparel Sourcing USA and Home Textiles Sourcing Expo. The denim section in the former included 20 denim mills, 18 of which are from China (the remaining two are from Pakistan and Taiwan, respectively). Bordering this area was the so-called Resource Row that included textile-related companies such as Fabscrap, which is devoted to recycling fabric scraps, and support organizations such as the NYC Fair Trade Coalition and the Pratt/Brooklyn Fashion & Design Accelerator. Also in this hall was the Spotlight display that showed the latest trends in trims and accessories.
Next door, in the southernmost hall, the Lenzing Pavilion returned, and showcased about 20 companies that create Tencel fabrics. This hall was also the home to numerous educational seminars sponsored by Lenzing as well as returning interactive Textile Talks discussion series.
Trendwise, the show’s art directors offered four main themes for the season: Radiant Revelation (think brightly colored lights), Subdued Revolution (a new world), Enlightened Ascent (plant and nature inspirations) and Astral Flight (sky and space looks and colors). They add that key hues for the season will be turquoise, a deep blue-purple and various shades of peach.
Finally, a free downloadable app made navigating the show easier and also provided additional information in the trend area. The next edition of Texworld USA will take place January 21-23, 2019.
PV always has a very international mix of exhibitors and this season was no different: the vast majority of its participants were from Europe or Asia from the Fabrics, Designs, Accessories, Manufacturing and Services sectors. Also as usual, it was the show’s special areas that were especially of interest and most informative. The large and always inspiring Trend Area (which prohibits photography, alas) again stood at the entrance of the show and highlighted season trends with swatches and product examples from the show floor. It showed that a/w 2019-20 is all about “warm and vibrant interplays” and include such themes as Meteorite (metallic prints and mineral/pebble-like surfaces), Whitened (bleached looks) and Subversive Bestiary (colorful, unnaturally hued animal prints), to name just three of more than 20 trend stories featured there. On the other side of the show, the CFDA in partnership with the NYC Economic Development Corporation sponsored a Made in USA section with eight companies that produce and manufacture in the Big Apple. One of them was Acme Design & Studio, a three-year-old company that makes clothing for clients at its facility in the Garment Center. It showed at PV for the first time. Its representative, Amanda Ngai, explained that there is a real movement to bring back domestic and local manufacturing and that “there are so many more designers engaged in this that we thought.” She added that she had made numerous connections at PV. Steps away, the Hyères Festival Exhibition showed the winning collection of Dutch duo Rushemy Botter and Lisa Herrebrugh’s called “Fish or Fight.”
Keeping with the key issues driving the sector at present, Smart Square area in the Fabrics section highlighted sustainable and ethical offerings from exhibitors and showcased apparel designs by Bethany Williams, Sylvia Heisel, 189 (which works with batik makers in Ghana) and Cienne whose clothes are made from 71% cotton/29% linen and use corozo buttons. Laura Gambarini of M.I.T.I. SpA of Bergamo, Italy, a first-time exhibitor in New York, said having a sample of her company’s new Fabric F line (a collection designed specifically for use in fashion) helped drive traffic to her booth. This fabric is a standout both for its bright colors and the fact that is 100% produced from recycled polyester, spandex and other materials.
PV also had a useful show app. The next edition will take place at Pier 94 on January 15-16, 2019.