According to first estimates, the most recent edition of Pitti Uomo, held from January 8 to 11, 2019 in Florence, closed its doors registering 8% fewer Italian visitors, while foreign ones seemed stable when compared to previous editions.
“I admire the extraordinary work that companies have been doing here in the last days. It’s an admiration I share with all the best international buyers,” commented Raffaello Napoleone, CEO, Pitti Uomo. “If I think of all the involvement and activity these insiders are committed to and to all the value all this represents a few less buyers is not worrying me.”
Most foreign buyers came from Germany, while the number of French and British ones slightly decreased. Those from the Netherlands remained stable while other European ones increased as did those from Canada, Hong Kong, India and Taiwan.
The show, which kicked off novelties for f/w 2019-20, experienced a relatively quiet first day though a very busy second and third one.
Fewer show-off outfits, fur coats and formal suits were around than in previous editions. More down jackets, longer coats and parkas crowded the show’s halls and main square. The dominating hue of this season was yellow–from fluorescent to sunny–either worn in total looks or added as accent on darker and gray total looks.
The Eighties are back
Revamping the past is often a choice. For this season much of the ’80s were around with brands that were popular in those years such as Ciesse Piumini and a special capsule Generation 80’, reminiscent of the decade with boxy jackets, bright hues and metallic surfaces.
Loads of bright colors, metallic and lucid surfaces and evident logos characterized many collections as seen at Gas, Rifle, Replay, Canadian, Ciesse Piumini and Rossignol. Mackage opted for young-minded primary color down jackets carrying visible detachable logos. Also Moon Boot, celebrating its 50th anniversary within this edition, bet on metallic and crystal accents added onto special edition apres-ski boots.
While aiming to lower their environmental impact, many collections and different product categories presented their most advanced achievements. North Sails offered outer jackets and bags made with recycled sails, but also a series of jackets and garments made by employing recycled nylon and fabric materials. Ecoalf had a similar jacket made with recycled materials only and a wool sweater in very soft touch recycled wool.
Also Woolrich offered various new capsules including one developed by Jeff Griffin employing recycled deadstock fabric and materials.
Save The Duck celebrated a special achievement by vegan climber Kuntal A. Joisher who reached 8,516 meter high while wearing highly functional clothes that didn’t use any animal origin material.
Replay has also launches its first eco-friendly Hyperflex Clouds five-pocket selection made with a special denim treated by saving 80% water, using no permanganate, no pumice stone and no chemicals, but only natural enzyme treating substances.
Gas launched its ETX Denim for Humans eco-friendly selection aimed to reduce its CO2 emissions, saving and recycling of water productive cycles while using an atoxic biocompatible substance for fixing and dyeing fabrics, among other eco-friendly components.
Stories Milano offered the first biocompostable made in Italy outer jacket.
Clark’s Originals launched its hybrid sport moccasin Seven 14 designed to reduce waste of material and glues by using a soft and flexible upper made up of seven pieces only, a recycled rubber sole and inner sole in natural cork.
Reda, the only wool manufacturer who has been granted with the LCA recognition, returned to Pitti Uomo and was involved in a photo exhibition from the Reda Archives showing unique and beautiful natural landscapes and exhibited throughout the Fortezza.
From raw to aged, jeans rule
Jeans brands are discovering a return to either very clean and highly functional denims or ethnic-inspired styles. Roy Rogers, for instance, presented outer jackets either entirely made with raw denim or mixing technical nylon and denim elements for highly protective function.
Rifle bet on color denim, higher-raise jeans for woman and T-shirts carrying a metallic-effect logo.
Edwin opts for herringbone denim blazers and Made in Japan race rainbow selvedge denim pieces.
Levi’s Made & Crafted opted for ethnic inspired jackets decorated with lots of fringe, jacquard elements and patches of different denim hues.
Villebrequin Denim debuted offering cool denim overalls and other premium denim pieces.
When performance looks cool
Performance and multifunctionality also characterize many brands’ collections. The outer jacket line Elements presented a series of new collabs including a capsule designed by Nigel Cabourn decorated with new orange/military green street-oriented camouflage patterns.
Garments that can protect from cold while looking cool are a must today.
The newborn brand Divisible offers half jackets that can be assembled together thanks to a single long zipper running from the hood to the back of the garment. This way different patterns can be bought and mixed and friends can exchange pieces of their jackets reciprocally.
Baracuta presented a series of winter jackets perfect for being worn in winter as they are completed by Moon wool strata, special inner layers in the same garment guaranteeing high cold and wind protection.
Rossignol has developed a series of new motifs and silhouettes by mixing different color elements in the same garment, special magnetic zippers and innovative jacquard fabrics.
Barbour celebrated its 125th anniversary with the presence of Helen Barbour (also see https://www.sportswear-international.com/news/stories/Brands-How-Barbour-remains-young-and-timeless-after-125-years-14454). As part of the celebrations the iconic British brand collaborated with Sir Ridley Scott, renowned film director, who is from the same region as Barbour. For the occasion it launched a special “Director’s Jacket,” meant to be worn by directors as completed by a larger pocket for carrying A4 format movie’s screenplay, anti-glare zips and studs designed to avoid attracting attention on film sets, plus an inner detachable quilt for extra warmth that allows the jacket to be worn across all seasons.
Colorful sneakers for winter are also a must of the season. Among others Atlantic Stars, the sneaker brand recently acquired by Alcedo fund, has enlarged its offer to include new models and colorful styles and Rossignol launched Rossignol X Philippe Model Paris, a new collaborative model that mixes Italian craftsmanship with French aesthetic characteristics shared by both brands.