The SS20 edition of London womenswear tradeshow Scoop (21-23 July) closed its doors on Tuesday night. Held yet again in the Saatchi Gallery off the King’s Road, it’s an inspiring 3-floor space to wander, with artworks and fashion presented side by side. Scoop may be geared towards brands with a decidedly feminine sensibility – think dress-based collections and neat knitwear – but the more casual offerings slot in nicely in this boutique-style environment. As a number of exhibitors we spoke to pointed out, even buyers whose budget is reserved mostly for dressier pieces will want to offer their consumer good jeans for the weekend.
Hot denim-led newcomer Self Cinema was among the show’s first-time exhibitors. The Stockholm-based brand’s SS20 collection (its premier outing) includes core styles as well as more elevated variants, such as studded jeans and a matching jacket, both crafted from GOTS certified denim and featuring recycled hardware. Non-denim pieces on display included the pictured pop-over jacket, cut to an oversized, cropped silhouette and made from recycled nylon by Econyl. Providing a bit of Scoop feedback, Self Cinema co-founder and creative director Samuel Thomas had this to say: “We’ve had a good show; the fair has been busy and it has vibrancy to it. We’ve met high-quality buyers as well as agencies that have expressed interest.”
Dutch footwear brand United Nude’s booth was an eye-catching one. For SS20, the architecture-inspired – designed by collection includes the Cube Sandal – a carryover of last summer’s bestseller – in new color-ways, such as these shown here.
As always, Scoop served up plenty of premium knitwear brands. New York-based cashmere specialist Duffy NY brought plenty of casual-lux pieces to the show, such as cashmere joggers and matching hoodies. Said Ray Barron, the brand’s Sales and Marketing Manager: “Our cotton-blend pieces with sporty mesh panels have done really well this season, as it’s a cooler alternative for the warmer months. Buyers keep telling me that they live in their yoga pants, so it’s clear the sport-lux trend is going nowhere.”
Over at PS Paul Smith’s booth, an eclectic vibe prevailed. Colorful prints – including the signature swirl pattern and rabbit motifs in different versions –adorned tees, dresses and silky shirts. There was also a good selection of denim, including the bestseller girlfriend fit and the true blue boiler suit pictured. This season marked the second Scoop outing for the brand, which usually invites buyers to its own showrooms, though we were told Scoop is a “good place for networking and keeping track of what’s happening in the market.”