The fashion for the coming summer season 2020 from Paris shows a colorful round of different styles, but above all many reminiscences of the past. Retro fashion is certainly one of the most important trends of this season. In times of an economically difficult market environment, many fashion houses reflect on their strengths from the ’60s, ‘70s or ’80s. Others see a solution in reissuing classics, giving themselves a conservative and bourgeois touch. And there are also brands that still rely on the power of influencers and design Instagram-worthy and equally striking styles.
Around 90 fashion shows were on the official calendar in Paris and were complemented by off-shows and a wide range of trade fairs and showrooms. These were the top trends we observed from them…..
Trend colors: from pink and rose to lilac and violet
The earth colors, which have already had a strong influence on the winter season, also shape summer fashion. In addition to the many natural tones in beige, ochre, rust and terracotta, a new color palette is also positioning itself that picks up on floral tones: pastel shades of rose and lilac are also declined in their more pronounced violet and pink shades, complementing the classic yellow color trend, which has already been in place for several seasons. See p.e. Can Pep Rey from Germany, clothing manufacturer Eka' from India or silk specialist Equiment from France.
Trench coat: A classic returns
In turbulent times, classics are considered a safe fashion investment. Those who go along with climate demonstrations and follow the new credo of a "buy less" want clothes that they can wear for a long time. The trench is exactly the right summer coat for these customers. Many brands give it new details or change the traditional cut with layers, different hems or accessories. However, most brands remain true to the original beige color, like A. Bell from South Korea, Sandro from Paris or Dear Miller from New York.
Jeans are strong–especially in the ’70s and ’80s style
Denim returns massively to the catwalks and the collections for summer 2020. However, the classic five-pocket is pushed into the background. Instead, the designers are relying on retro styles: Influenced by Hedi Slimane's ‘70s winter collection for Celine, the brands are reissuing denim culottes and trouser skirts. Seen on Celine, Current/Elliott, Ginger, Julia June, Happy House and Ilana Kohn. The Bermuda rises again from the ’80s: at that time it was a DIY object, cut off from an old pair of jeans. Today this style is decoratively copied with an open hem (e.g. by Bobo Choses, Current/Elliott, Saint Laurent). The wide jeans remain, but get a classic detail with a pleat and gain length (e.g. Akris, Celine, Givenchy, Current/Elliott).
The new romantic is girlish and with details on the sleeve
Last season's long flower dresses have set the stage for a return to romance. Ruffles, lace and flounces are common elements for the summer dresses for 2020. Many are strongly waisted, reach up to the knee or slightly over and are gathered or ruched. The sleeves in particular are the focus of romanticism with fabrics, which are smocked or gathered on half the upper arm (e.g. Louis Vuitton, Julia June, Bibliotheque New York, Isabel Marant). The floral prints remain, but are more reduced than in the previous seasons. To not overload the dresses, many designers have also chosen a unicolor fabric.
Retour à la nature: From natural materials and fabrics with character
The discussion about climate change does not leave fashion unaffected. Also during the Paris Fashion Week, the climate protectors and the organizers of the Fashion Week, the Fédération de Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM), demonstrated that they want to position themselves as a pioneer among the fashion weeks in terms of CO2 emissions and waste reduction. On the catwalks and at trade fairs, this rethinking is gradually being implemented. This season, fewer petroleum-based chemicals were seen at the trade fairs, and the collections are increasingly being made from natural materials. Linen and cotton are coarsely woven (Julia June, Eka', Samant Chauhan, Ace & Jog, Les Demoiselles, Ambas, Gaze de Lin, Inouïtoosh, Nicholson and Nicholson), cotton is washed to the point of pilling (Can Pep Rey), denim is made coarse or with a linen blend (Happy Haus). Bast wickerwork and crochet work (Dior, Nanushka) are processed into dresses and skirts. The Japanese brand Nesessaire upcycles the crochet and lace seeding of old table and used it for new dresses.
The new casualness of bags: instead of it bags, bast and fabric bags
The natural trend also continues with accessories. Belts and bags are made of raffia and are often artfully woven. The French label Ibeliv even has its own production facilities in Madagascar, where 600 women are employed, with an associated school and reforestation program. Many brands, such as Ibeliv, thus combine their ecological aspirations with social responsibility. The supply of raffia bags seems immense: Maison N.H. Paris, Sophie Digard, Sans-Accident, Gabriele Frantzen... At the same time, oversize bags made of fabric can be seen celebrating simplicity. They appeared on the catwalks of p.e. Christian Wijnants and Hermès.