Thumbs up, high attendance and great enthusiasm greeted the debut of Denim PV London held on December 5-6, 2018 at Truman Brewery in Shoreditch. Along with showing many novelties the producers announced that the June 2019 event will take place in Milan’s Superstudio while the December 2019 edition will return to London.
Some insiders were disappointed that the next edition, which is scheduled for June 5-6, will overlap with Kingpins New York and take place during the end of Ramadan, a key festival for Muslim countries.
Guglielmo Olearo, Denim Première Vision director and Première Vision’s international exhibitions director, commented: “Considering that our next edition will overlap with Kingpins New York we think that we belong to different markets as many of our visitors are away from the five-pocket denim market. In fact we also serve many fashion brands, too. Speaking about end of Ramadan, we are considering to eventually anticipate the show of one week. Right now we are in a phase of checking if this is possible.”
This recently closed edition kept its international identity as, according to results collected at the end of the first day, many visitors from both the UK (47%) and international scene (53%) attended. During the opening day, the show registered +30% visitors more than its previous edition, even if the second day was slightly quieter. Among the visitors were insiders from very different brands and markets such as Dior, Givenchy, Paul Smith, Giorgio Armani, Tommy Hilfiger, Levi’s, All Saints, Asos, Celio and Next, plus various consultants including, for instance, Sue Barrett.
“Such results testify that the path we have started since last season is fruitful, creates curiosity and offers new business opportunities. When we announced our next new destination was Milan we got great positive reactions from both visitors and exhibitors. Every time we select a location we do it as we know that moving there can bring new business opportunity. For this we thought that London deserved a second opportunity for December 2019, though we are considering to move to other cities in the future including, for instance, Berlin and Stockholm,” continued Olearo.
The show presented a variety of trends and novelties characterizing s/s 2020.
Fancy denim rocks
The most striking and funkiest selection of fabrics was offered by PG Denim presenting metallic surface denims and ready-for-dye fabrics, glittery animal printed fabrics and clashing Sangallo lace embroidered coated cotton denims. PG Denim’s Studio 54 line offered a series of ’80s-inspired bright color vinyl stretch fabrics.
Berto focused on new surface effects and patterns. As Bauhaus will celebrate a 100th anniversary foundation within s/s 2020, it created a collection inspired by reinvented geometric motifs. It reproduced square elements as jacquard effects on denims’ surface, and created unique thin multicolor stripes, square and circle prints for highly artistic cotton fabrics.
Reinventing the past
Other companies reinvented longtime denims by adding new properties and functions.
Orta, in collaboration with The Vintage Showroom, presented fabrics inspired by iconic denim pieces from the past like authentic Levi’s 501 or Wrangler’s broken twill though reinvented and added with high-tech stretch performance. It rediscovered Lee’s Jelt Denim by offering it in recycled cotton.
Chottani together with Lenzing’s Tencel and Swarovski offered the Mesmerizing series of innovative silky touch indigo Tencel fabrics decorated with crystal applications. According to players involved in the initiative, such collaborations show how cultural inclusivity can be achieved in many ways–fabrics included. Cone Denim launched a new range of shirting fabrics and offered a series of pieces carrying stitchings made with threads by A&E, part of ITG Group, the same holding that owns Cone.
Denim goes high-tech
Iskur Denim presented open-end denims added with T-400 in different color and weight variants. It also offered Asana, a special high-elasticity selection of denim optic fabrics, plus Retro, left-hand denim that is naturally stretchy as it is made with 100% cotton.
Evlox has launched its new Bionim line of denims all added with special technical functions such as, for instance, antibacterial, breathable, water-repellent, tear-resistant, thermoregulating properties, among others.
Sustainability is the new black
Eco-friendly is a theme that remains crucial for this industry. Vicunha has launched Absolut-Eco, a denim fabric designed in collaboration with Adriano Goldschmied. This fabric looks like a bleached light blue denim though it is obtained without employing any harmful chemicals. It was made by recycling Vicunha’s own denim remains that were shred, respun and added with fresh cotton. “This denim is in absolute the most sustainable possible as it is not dyed with indigo. Its light blue hue is obtained by using recycled yarns only,” commented the denim guru.
UCO-Raymond is getting ready to celebrate UCO’s 100th anniversary in 2019. As UCO considers itself the inventor of yarn-dyed color denim in 1974, for this occasion it is launching a 60-hue selection of color denim, though re-engineered in an eco-friendly version as dyed with Archroma eco-friendly dyes.
Berto has launched Pianeta, a new selection of sustainable denims developed in collaboration with Blackhorse Lane Ateliers. This London premium denim brand produced a selection of jeans made with Pianeta denims. These fabrics are obtained by recycling leftovers from Berto’s in-house yarn production and added with new cotton. In addition, these special Blackhorse Lane jeans were treated by Everest laundry calculating their exact EIM (Environmental Impact Measurement).
Cone Denim offered its Truetone line of Lenzing’s less polluting Future Black denim made with Repreve fibers obtained by recycling 17 PET bottles added with new cotton and Modal.
Kilim Denim has launched its new Cactus line of fabrics, a selection of denims produced by saving 98% water when compared with traditional production methods. Other new eco-friendly products by Kilim include denims made with organic cotton, recycled PET bottles and recycled denim. Also new was a denim dyed without employing hydrosulphites.