Première Vision held its most recent edition on September 17-19 presenting novelties for f/w 2020-21.
According to exhibitors, the show saw a quieter first day and a livelier second one and was generally well attended by international top buyers and insiders constantly busy in meetings and networking activities.
Among most outstanding trends sustainability was a clear fil rouge that characterized most companies’ offer as presented in the Smart Creation area of the show with round tables and cool new products. The section hosted a selection of innovative materials such as, for instance, Reda Flexo, a new merino wool fabric added with eco-friendly stretch fiber that’s part of the Roica Eco-Smart family. Also innovative were cotton fabrics produced with Supreme Green Cotton, a variety of OGM free cotton grown by Greek manufacturer and cotton grower Varvaressos, whose cotton fields are irrigated according to a pioneering satellite-powered drip irrigation system using Israeli innovative technologies that customize water pouring and help save up to 40% water.
Leather manufacturers and tanners also presented many innovations. Among them Italian specialist Sciarada showed Evolo, a new selection of leathers tanned by reusing raw materials without additional chrome, while cutting water consumption and recycling leather from the tanning process. Other tanners offering environmentally friendly leathers included Dani, Chiorino and Raynaud.
Sustainably sourced Eastman Naia cellulosic yarn has enlarged its offer of fibers and collaborations by including new more biodegradable 100% Naia fabrics and new blends with other sustainable fibers such as cellulosic fibers, wool, bamboo and silk, while offering sports mesh entirely made with Naia.
Sportswear and outdoor fabrics have also increased their performance and eco-friendliness. Among them Polartec, the polar fleece specialist, is now working for always more pret-à-porter brands. It has developed a special material that aims to be more sustainable as it is trying to cover its fleece with two matelassè strata that prevent the microplastic fibers to be released when washed.
Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey is offering a very wide selection of prints that mimic checked and herringbone wools, though are thick and doubled with other Sensitive Fabrics on the inner side so as to be used for winter jackets and coats once they are lined with paddings and inner vests.
Estethia G.B. Conte, a division of Marzotto Group, developed Wool+, a line of technical wools to be worn in commuting activities and urban life. Redaelli Velluti presented its Super Velvet three-layer waterproof fabric that was awarded at the 2019 edition of Ispo as one of the most innovative developments. It also presented a selection of Primaloft eco-friendly materials that are worked as fake-furs, are super soft and as beautiful as natural ones.
Schoeller launched it Proearth collection of biodegradable textiles designed for lifestyle, fashion and outdoor categories. It is made with virgin polyester that has been optimized for biodegradation and tested to biodegrade at faster and better rates than competitive offerings. For this fall the offer includes fabrics for jacket, pant and lining material qualities with various color options.
Among denim exhibitors, in addition to the vast offer of prints, evident surface treatments, breakings and agings, there were some innovative bio-technical treatments such as those developed by M Blue including Avocado Finish and Lanolin Finish adding softening properties, and Stay Fresh, adding odor-control properties to garments. Shinjentex presented a special enzyme wash that requires no further garment washing after the treatment. Also new was the selection of denims offered by Hemp Fortex that also use fibers including hemp, wild silk and yak hair.
Shirting specialists also hawked newness. Canclini, for instance, offered Canclini 1925, a series of more casual shirting fabrics available in different weights, patterns and weaves, such as checked fabrics for overshirts and leisure time shirts, and in chambray and lightweight indigo denim alternatives.