The most recent edition of Kingpins Amsterdam held on April 10 and 11 set a new step in the show’s evolution. The event drew a significant presence of top international denim, jeanswear and fashion professionals, though, according to some insiders, fewer visitors attended than previous editions. Apparently, many companies are cutting costs and also shows seem to be involved in that. Despite this, exhibitors were highly satisfied with meeting their key customers and industry experts.
For those of you who missed it, we’ve selected the top trends for f/w 2020-21 seen at the show.
Sustainability continues to be the number one topic in the industry-not only because in advance to the show Kingpins' founder Andrew Olah underlined once more that in the future he will accept CSR-certified companies only.
Orta offered a new environmentally friendly technique that uses clay from Halys, a river of the region of Cappadocia near to the company’s mill. The clay can age fabrics naturally without polluting waters. When mixed with bio indigo it produces new and different dusty blue hues on flat fabrics. When applied onto denim fabrics it can create new uneven surface effects.
More products seen around were aniline-free denims by Soorty and Advance Denim. Albiate 1830 presented high-quality 100% organic cotton denims, Neela by Sapphire Fabrics offered pre-washed denims in two blue shades ready to be used by garment makers without impacting the environment. Bossa launched Organic Autumn Savefera, a denim made with organic cotton, recycled cotton and Refibra then treated with its Saveblue technology that reduces water consumption by 85%. Tencel presented its Planet Rehab collection designed by Juan Carlos Gordillo using fabrics by Tejidos Royo made with Tencel and Tencel x Refibra fibers, dyed with Recycrom eco-friendly dyes by Officina+39 and finished by Tonello.
Iskur Denim presented its Earthsquad denim collection made with yarns obtained from recycling all the cuttings collected throughout Iskur Group’s facilities.
Garmon Chemicals introduced White & Green, an alternative solution to dangerous products used in the industry. Thanks to this new range it guarantees a sustainable jeans discoloration process for achieving a very high level of whiteness, superior bright shades, stylish vintage looks and high-level contrasts, while saving energy.
Colors and non-colors
Yarn-dyed color denims and colored flat fabrics are back. Green shades, bordeaux and reds, earth hues and also a vast range of ecru, most different whites and beiges are absolute musts as seen at Tejidos Royo, Orta, Soorty and Neela by Sapphire Fabrics, among others.
The unisex appeal of workwear, overalls, all-in-ones, workers’ jackets and comfy cargo pants is totally on trend. Soorty and Orta played with a selection of different fabrics for this new comfy-cool.
New tactile sensations and soft touch effects are booming. Lenzing’s Tencel discovered that out of Kingpins Amsterdam’s exhibitors 90% use its fibers. Among the vast offer of soft touch fabrics, Soorty offered a selection that have a supple inner side. Bossa launched its Eversoft selection characterized by a special blend of fibers (mostly Modal and Tencel) and a finishing that guarantees extra softness and comfort.
Supporting the industry with new ideas has gained serious traction among insiders. Jeanologia has developed a new concept aimed at recycling, reinventing and revamping old stocks and unsold pieces by adding new laser techniques creating different surface effects, graphic elements, handwritten decors and also abrasions and uneven effects and embroideries that give a new aspect–and life–to old pieces.
Calik has reinforced its Selfsized fabric selection by introducing the Selfsized Boost offer. This new group of fabrics maintains the same capacity to be lightweight and soft touch and work as a one-size-fits-all material that can be used for all body types, sizes, men or women and consumers of all ages. It now boasts extra holding power, shaping capacity to sculpt the body and push up effects.
Knitwear meets indigo
Arvind has developed a new selection of indigo- and sulfur-dyed special knits that can be used for a new generation of casual-chic and sporty garments. It offers special compact knits for sporty-chic blazers and elaborate openwork tops and embroidered items. These fabrics are also perfect for a new generation of reinterpreted workwear items and also offers materials for cool activewear pieces. They provide new jacquard effects on ribs, garments’ edges and placed decorations and can be laser-cut and thermo-sealed.
Garment archive The Vintage Showroom from London is launching TVS Images, a new digital archive for designers and creatives. This new subscription-based online offer gives access to the archive’s London collection allowing users to browse thousands of images of vintage clothing according to thematic categories such as workwear, denim and tailoring. The archive will start presenting 25,000 unique images which will be updated quarterly.