London tradeshow Jacket Required’s SS20 edition (24-25 July) concluded on Thursday night. The event was held at East London’s The Old Truman Brewery, its home for the past few years. Some 110 brands shared the vast space this season, fewer than previously (the number peaked at 250 a few seasons ago). While some corners seemed a little bare, the reduced brand lineup made for an airier environment, giving many exhibitors roomier booths.
The community sprit was high, despite the modest traffic during the first half of day one, caused no doubt by the unusually hot weather. Repeat exhibitors have a soft spot for “Jacket”, citing its excellent networking credentials and relaxed atmosphere as its biggest plus points. “We always enjoy coming here, chatting to established and new contacts. The atmosphere’s great and the brand mix is consistent,” said Steve Cooper, UK Sales Manager at Unify agency.
Over at denim brand Neuw’s stand, Jimmy Ozanne of Indigofera Showroom explained why it makes sense for him and his team to exhibit at Jacket Required: “We do a lot of our order-writing in our London showroom but exhibit at Jacket Required to catch up with anyone who might have missed us at the showroom. We’ve set up a quite a few appointments over the two days here, but we’ve also made plenty of new contacts, including buyers from the UK and abroad.”
Here, six highlights spotted across the Jacket Required show terrain:
Tretorn has delved into its archive to celebrate its 120th anniversary as a sneaker manufacturer. The Mexico 68 style is a modernized replica of the tennis shoe worn by the Swedish Olympic team in 1968. The upper is made from Eco Lite certified leather by TanTec, while the sole gets its “bounce” from the 50% natural rubber content. The sneaker comes with a selection of laces matching the signature colors of the Olympic flag.
London based name L.F. Markey started out as a women’s brand with focus on “modern basics and luxury workwear”. Three seasons ago, menswear was added to the repertoire. A delightfully offbeat medley of oversized, paneled jeans, easy shirts and tees were displayed at Jacket Required, plus this cozy faux shearling linen coat with contrast cotton binding.
Spanish accessories brand Lefrik is relatively new to the UK market. Its unisex bags are crafted from recycled polyester derived from plastic bottles, of which about 13 have been used for each bag. Functional and clean in style, the bags are unisex and come in a broad spectrum of colors.
Melbourne-based denim brand Neuw has a definite rock’n’roll feel to it, coupled with vintage elements. Slim and skinny fits are its perennial bestsellers, and lots of these were on display at Jacket Required – including an elaborately repaired style, featuring hand-applied zigzag work and a contrast patch.
Peak Performance X Ben Gorham
Ben Gorham – he of Byredo fragrances – has teamed up with Peak Performance for SS20 to bring out a unisex, multifunctional range called “possessions of my soul”. The capsule collection consists of all manner of technical garments, including jackets, trousers and wind shirts. Elements such as drawstrings and external pockets usually hidden on the inside of the garment lend the look an industrial touch.
Australian brand Afends, founded in Byron Bay in 2006, is a passionate advocate of the use of hemp, encouraging us to join its “hemp revolution” to reduce the heavy water usage associated with cotton garment production. Afends crafts its casual range of men’s and women’s apparel almost exclusively from hemp-blend material. This rib-edge pocket tee was among the many hemp offerings on display in brand’s buzzing booth.