Pitti Uomo, the international menswear show held from January 7-10, 2020 in Florence's Fortezza da Basso, rang in the new year by launching collections for f/w 2020-21. The show started very slowly as it took place right after Christmas festivities, on the same day of the Orthodox Christmas and at the beginning of the sales season, though its second and third days were busier and livelier, and hosted more visitors in a very cool atmosphere.


Among the novelties seen during the show were bright and energetic hues including orange, red and bordeaux tones along with many blue and military green hues (Ten C, Ciesse Piumini, Baracuta, Woolrich). A strong return of military and workwear inspiration was around together with traditional woolen fabrics–checked, houndstooth or tweed effect fabrics (Ten C, Blauer, Closed x Nigel Cabourn, Chevignon, MCS, Guabello x Camo, Nine In The Morning). Lots of sheepskin was spied as an inner layer or as coats and jackets (Ten C and Closed x Nigel Cabourn among others). Metallic hues, technical and different surfaces mixed together played an important part (Mackage, RRD, Fila, Blauer). The most innovative were some newly developed eco-friendly and sustainable items.

Ten C
Photo: SI Team
Ten C

 

Eco-friendliness meets technical
Among innovative developments some sportswear brands have developed jackets using graphene, a very good warmth conductor obtained from carbonium. This material is highly resistant therefore garments made with it last longer. Brands using it include Woolrich, offering a jacket made with graphene fibers and padded with it, while, among others, Momodesign also used it.  



Esemplare offered its Zero Signal jacket made with recycled nylon and padded with Thermore Thermal Booster, a smart thermo-regulating padding. The newborn outer jacket brand Replumè showed jackets made with Pure, a padding made with recycled, sterilized-in-Italy and certified down. Swedish brand Houdini Sportswear launched a collection 100% made with recycled, biodegradable and recyclable materials. Danish brand KnowledgeCotton Apparel presented its collection of garments all produced by certified manufacturing partners using 100% sustainable methods and materials.

 

More innovation on show
Uyn is a unique 160-gram sneaker made by a special 3D knitting one-piece technique upper in 100% merino wool, and injected recyclable polyurethane sole.

Lotto offered a selection of new sneakers employing H-Dry, a water-resistant breathable membrane.

Trussardi presented Beautiful Minds, a new course for the brand led by a series of new creative talents. For the occasion Giorgio Di Salvo, creative director of the United Standard brand, reinterpreted the collection by reinventing its graphics, adding new workwear-chic inspiration and new modern interpretations of its iconic greyhound logo.

Trussardi F/W 2020
Photo: Trussardi
Trussardi F/W 2020

The Closed x Nigel Cabourn capsule reinterpreted the brand's own story by reinventing military, marine and workwear elements by redesigning items originally created by the Girbaud duo offering unisex, men's and women's items with a twist.

 

Cool jeans go eco
Jeanswear brands also continued to feature eco-friendly products. Among them Hand Picked presented a selection of jeans whose back label is made with a material derived from biologically cultivated apple peel and whose denim uses bio-cotton and recycled cotton along with stretch fibers obtained from recycled PET. Peppino Peppino denim brand has launched a selection of simply rinsed denim items completed by back labels in Viridis, a sustainable corn-derived material. In addition, one of its jackets is ozone treated without using permanganate or chemicals. Also Tela Genova is betting strong on eco-friendly jeans. Out of its total offer, 80% of its selection is made according to GOTS certified productive processes and no washing technique is used apart from hand-abraded treatments.

Peppino Peppino ecofriendly jeans
Photo: SI Team
Peppino Peppino ecofriendly jeans

 

Events
The show also hosted many events all meant to show the market that brands have great stories to tell–and strong products.

Blauer and FGF celebrated the 20th anniversary of this US brand's launch in the European market. The brand headed by entrepreneur and designer Enzo Fusco presented Human Landscapes, a multimedia installation curated by art director Felice Limosani showing photos by James Mollison through a US journey shooting real people wearing Blauer pieces.

Blauer human landscapes
Photo: Pitti Uomo
Blauer human landscapes

Meanwhile, Woolrich presented The Ultimate Woolrich Experience, an installation that while celebrating the brand's 190th anniversary showed how it is evolving after the recent acquisition by L-Gam investment fund.

Woolrich arctic parka the evolution of an icon
Photo: Pitti Uomo
Woolrich arctic parka the evolution of an icon

Other interesting events included the Rolf Ekroth & Terinit presentation whose inspiration mixed snowboarding culture, cyber punk, science fiction and military. Swedish brand Terinit presented it under the creative direction of Rolf Ekroth.

Rolf Ekroth featuring Terinit Winter 2020
Photo: Pitti Uomo
Rolf Ekroth featuring Terinit Winter 2020

Also key was Sergio Tacchini's special event "Impossible Angle" showing its new course under the creative direction of Dao-Yi Chow mixing the brand's tennis roots as seen through a mix of hip-hop inspiration with '80s and '90s vibes.

Sergio Tacchini
Photo: Pitti Uomo
Sergio Tacchini

Finally, the K-Way fashion show focused on reinventing its iconic windbreaker that is currently experiencing newfound success.

K-Way
Photo: Pitti Uomo
K-Way


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