Heavy foot traffic, but also changes expected to happen, very probably, by 2020, characterized the most recent edition of Kingpins Amsterdam held Wednesday and yesterday at Westergasfabriek.
The show was busy and on the first day had already registered 90% of the attendance it drew for its entire two-day April 2018 edition, or 600 companies out of 670, as Kingpins announced.
Along with such positive results, some rumors started circulating about the possibility that Kingpins Amsterdam might reduce the number of its exhibitors starting from 2019 from the current 100 to a drastically smaller amount, apparently to those most focused on sustainable practices.
Despite such whispers, Andrew Olah, founder and owner of Kingpins shows, denied them. “Our Kingpins Amsterdam editions happening in 2019 will continue being held according to the present concept and involve the same number of exhibitors,” he commented. “From end 2019 and definitely from 2020 we will launch a different project that could make all this talk and conferences on sustainability–too many happening around–turn into facts,” he added without mentioning any other detail as the new project is still in a study phase.
Another change will also involve New York Denim Days since 2019 already. “Next year Denim Days New York, that usually took place in September, will be anticipated to June and will happen right after Kingpins. It will be the first time these two events take place one after the other, as we do in Amsterdam,” he explained.
What’s hot for s/s 2020?
The strongest hype for s/s 2020 were a few main trends such as a return of colored denim, a comeback of vintage and authentic denim, an even stronger buzz on sustainability and the launch of more functional denims whether highly stretch or added with intrinsic high-tech properties.
Many denim manufacturers are betting on colored denim. Calik opted for bright yellows and pink fabrics. Brown, mustard yellows and greens were cool at Candiani Denim, Kilimdenim and Orta, while the latter also bets on pastels. Bossa presented a selection of pieces made with patchworks of tone-on-tone hues, including, for instance, red and pink, yellow and orange and similar bright mixes.
Following the growing trend of colored denim, Tejidos Royo has developed a new PFD (Prepared for Dye) selection of fabrics that are eco-friendly since they are made with recycled fibers but have a very smooth and regular surface.
Candiani Denim has just launched Relast, its new eco denim stretch fabric developed in partnership with Asai Kasei, a Japanese fiber specialist. The new fabric selection employs customized Roica recycled GRS certified stretch yarns developed exclusively for Candiani. This new fiber is obtained by recycling production remains from stretch fiber manufacturing. The Relast range offers a premium denim selection available in different performance levels such as Comfort, Stretch and Super Stretch offering high-recovery 18%, 40% and 50% stretch properties respectively.
Lenzing announced that by beginning of 2019 it will increase the ratio of recycled cotton scraps contained in its Refibra material from the present 20% to 30%, while lowering the amount of wood to 70%. It also developed Pro Denim, a combination of different blends mixing ingredients Lyocell, polyester, viscose and Lycra that were once employed for denim look like regular cotton ones.
On the same trend, Artistic Milliners has developed a vast selection of denims that employ a high degree of cellulosic fibers some of which include 70% Tencel, others 35% Refibra and other fabrics 50% Modal.
Bossa focused on “Denim of the Future,” a selection of fully sustainable denims made with organic and recycled cotton, recycled polyester and treated with its special sustainable process Saveblue: Towards Zero Water. The process guarantees it can save 85% of water compared to the conventional dyeing processes.
Neela Denim has launched Ethical Denim, a new range of fabrics that can be treated without employing water.
Elleti presented a capsule of denim garments designed by three students of Jean School Amsterdam treated with both regular finishings and eco-friendly ones. The project showed how younger generation designers see the future of jeans–based upon innovative garments that drift away from traditional five-pocket models–though also demonstrate that sustainability can be achieved without “harming” a garment’s aesthetic.
Tonello, together with denim consultant Amy Leverton, presented a project that reinvented vintage casual pieces by renowned Italian brands. She reinterpreted Italian iconic vintage pieces by Benetton, Replay, Diesel and Versace, among others, by adding new eco-friendly fabric elements and treating them with sustainable finishings developed through Tonello treating machines.
Many chemical and treatment specialists have focused on new alternatives to potassium permanganate. Among them Officina+39 has developed its Trustainable substances and technology. Smart Bleach is a bleaching technology for a nebulized system that replaces both chlorine and PP, employs one liter of water per each kilo of garments to be treated, can be employed for both black and blue denim, but doesn’t damage the environment.
Also Rudolf Group has developed a series of solutions that are environmentally friendly. Among them Hypno can obtain very similar effects of PP, without being harmful to nature. It also developed Dura Blue, a treatment that prevents jeans from fading for about 15-20 washes.
Garmon presented a new edition of its Stretch Care products enhanced with new developments. This family of products can be used for stretch colored fabrics without damaging them.
Jeanologia believes that a detoxification and water saving in jeans treatment is possible. It aims to reduce to zero the use of damaging substances and treatments by 2025 through different aims: it wants to avoid 100% the use of manual scraping and grinding, PP and bleach and have stone usage with zero discharge (as all water used for treatments can be re-employed).
Authentic comes back
Many companies believe that much can be done to reinvent past fabrics for new future trends. “It looks like fast fashion is dictating trends,” said Fuat Mirap, sales and marketing director, Kilimdenim. “For us the future is taking the opposite direction as we chose to go back to the past, as our company produced top quality denim as first one in Turkey,” he explained. Kilimdenim has launched its “1986” denim selection, a family of products that reinvent vintage offering stretch selvedge and other traditional denims though matching today’s premium jeans brands’ needs.
Evlox presented a series of evident vertically irregular denims, a selection of crosshatch fabrics and salt-and-pepper effects.
Artistic Milliners, among others, presented a line of denims characterized by a slight green cast, and also offered California Roll, a denim selection influenced by Japanese vintage denim elements reinvented for more commercial and fashion-minded collections.
Calik has developed a series of fabrics whose optics is vintage and apparently heavy, though lightweight, high stretch and comfortable.
More functions to denim
Lycra has launched Lycra Freef!t, a technology that provides denim and woven fabrics with soft, easy stretch and excellent recovery.
Evlox has offered a selection of eight highly functional denims such as Bionim, that incorporate more functions intrinsic to the fabric such as highly breathable, tear resistant, with cooling, warming, and water repellent properties.
To measure how a stretch fabric performs, Neela Denim has developed “X Factor,” a three-element performance indexing system that can offer brands and retailers information about how much a stretch fabric performs in terms of comfort, power and elasticity variants according to a scale from one to ten.
Myr, a software company developed for creating collections, supporting design process and jeans production, has launched a wider series of functions inherent to the casual industry design and productive cycle. It can design and create information flow for producing personalized labels, tags and accessories for jeanswear as well as sneakers, leather bags and made to measure in-store customizing processes.