Unlike previous editions when all the shows were concentrated over a handful of days, this year the FW17 fashion trade shows in New York City were spread over a long two weeks period. It started with Tranoï, which had anticipated its dates to coincide with the last days of NYFW. The move, designed to bring to the show into the NYFW circuit, unfortunately didn't work as planned and many exhibitors were lamenting a lack of traffic. This miscalculation cast a shadow -hopefully only temporary, on an otherwise excellent show. The carefully curated selection of top quality brands offered a concise yet exhaustive view of the upcoming season. Highlights for the sportswear segment included: richly decorated and deconstructed sweatshirts by Paolo Petrone, a return to the eternally appealing rock'n roll look, again with lavish embellishments, and the continuing success of printed shirts: those simple garments whose only decoration is a smart quote or phrase.
All these disparate elements converge into the macro-trend of the "luxurization" of sportswear.
This overall trend is especially evident in the evolution of the sneaker, which in recent seasons has been increasingly morphing from a sport and casual shoe into sophisticated and elegant footwear. The line presented by French brand Zespà at the Woman show is a fine example of how classic sportswear items are acquiring a new edge thanks to precious details such as crocodile inserts and lurex fabrics.
On the Woman's show floor, Neul's collection stood out for its original color palette built around mustard yellow and russet, two of the trending colors of the FW17 season.
British brand You Must Create featured an original collection with wide leg pants, painter jackets and pinafore dress inspired by Bauhaus artists and early 70's Berlin.
Woman and Tranoi always offer the opportunity to spot new emerging trends and for denim the signals point to a deconstructive approach with raw uncut hems all over and reversed inside/outside.
In a sea of changing dates and locations Designers and Agents remained a stable and reliable presence. The show divided in 4 studios over 2 locations provided as usual an engaging combination of stylish classics, hip new labels and eco-friendly designers. For the FW17 sportswear staples such as the bomber and the biker jacket will be declined in a variety of materials and lengths that go from the fluo and hi tech to hand dyed. In terms of fabrics new terry cloth mixes, and furry lined heavy cotton are set to play a big role.
Prairie Underground featured the classic fur lined rebel jacket in cotton and casual wear in terry cloth with corduroy effect. Several designers have put their hands on sportswear classic such as the grey sweatshirt embellished by details in bold floral prints by debuting brand Ana G. or the biker jacket with fluo details by Brooke Adams.
In the footwear segment the Eskimo-inspired Mou boots were right on trend with metallic effects and bronze studs, while sustainable brand Huma Blanco featured stylish booties and heels with faux fur pom pom.