Denim Première Vision has just closed its latest edition, held May 23-24, 2018 in its new Parc Floral location in Paris that featured a completely new layout and concept.
Although attendance was not huge and many exhibitors and visitors expressed many criticisms, the event was successful. “We have just started taking a new two-year path of changes and evolution and are happy about these results. We want to progress step by step and this was our first one,” commented Guglielmo Olearo, international exhibitions director, Premiere Vision.
“Our aim was to start attracting–in addition to the pure denim market professionals–increasingly more fashion and contemporary fashion brands, designers and high-end fashion market insiders. Though we also want to attract companies that focus on volumes and retail chains, and we are satisfied about it.” He continued: “By choosing a bucolic and inspiring location such as Parc Floral, we wanted to recall very busy–and sometimes stressed–professionals to take their time, enjoy the beauty of nature and of some very special trade show experience, and meet the denim industry. And also in this case we reached our goal. Although we don’t have exact figures in our hands yet already from our first impressions–and by talking to some exhibitors–the audience that visited the show were more than the pure denim aficionados. We wanted to enlarge our visitors’ spectrum and we succeeded in it.”
This is how the exhibitors rate the new concept
While some exhibitors complained about a general slowness and not meeting all of the brands and insiders they expected, professionals visiting the show included employees of Chanel, Trussardi, Dior and other international brands and groups including PVH Group, Rag & Bone and J. Crew.
According to some exhibitors their requests had not been satisfied or satisfied too slowly. Some visitors complained about the new location’s distance from the city center. Others, however, seemed to appreciate the new format. “ I was surprisingly happy when I saw visitors entering the show at 9:30 am, right after we opened, staying here for the whole day,” Olearo said. While speaking about the second day of the show, usually a weak aspect for shows that last two days only, Fabio Dalla Val, Denim PV’s show manager, added: “At the beginning of the second day, although not many visitors were around, every booth was hosting someone for an appointment–another positive result.”
“All this means that the quality was there. And for us value counts more than quantity,” continued Olearo.
Some exhibitors’ feedback was negative for a general low attendance, though it is also true that many weavers have already started showing their collections since January.
In terms of show’s layout all booths were purposely very similar as the aim was to let product speak for itself and many companies succeeded in that goal. The show’s trend forum, entirely redesigned, marked another change as it welcomed visitors with a clear fashion-minded message by presenting a series of different pieces created by designer Lutz Huelle, as a reinvented wardrobe entirely inspired by reinterpretations of the Western style jacket. All upcoming editions will host different designers’ own interpretation of future denim trends.
Also interesting was the idea to present whole fabric cuts as part of the forum: “We are used to see only garments in trend areas. For this reason we also chose to present weavers’ forte and not products that have been manufactured by many intermediate players,” said Dalla Val.
Strongest and most evident trends for f/w 2019-10
Among the strongest and most evident trends for f/w 2019-10 spotted was a strong hype on golden and metallic applications, sequins, Lurex surfaces and Swarovski and crystal applications (Berto, Chottani, Rajby and Raymond Uco). Heavily handpainted-like fabrics were often presented by G&G, PG By Berto-Eurotessile and M&J. Fur-like surfaces (Soorty, Crescent Bahüman and Advance Denim) were juxtaposed with multi-patchwork surfaces by Denim International or evident ribs and stitchings by Rajby.
Kilim Denim played with innovative pleats and matches of different PCRD fabrics employed in the same item, Naveena offered a highly sustainable new denim range and US Group offered new color combinations and casts for its whole fabric seelction.
A significant part of the show was dedicated to eco-friendly fabrics and processes hosted within the Denim Smart Square presenting both the Smart Library showing a selection of eco-friendly pieces and fabrics by manufacturers including Tavex-Evlox, Naveena, M&J, Calik, Crescent Bahüman, Prosperity Textile and YKK, together with an accurate description why such materials have been selected, and the Smart Wardrobe section displaying brands keen about environmental issues such as Pepe Jeans, Kuyichi, Haikure and Blue of a Kind.
Outlook: London, December 2018
While referring to the December 2018 edition that will debut in London, an event that is greatly anticipated by many insiders, not much was disclosed. Olearo commented: “We want our show always to happen in great and highly inspiring locations, as is the True Old Brewery of London. We will offer visitors great experience there as we did in our last Paris edition. As we closed the first day of Denim PV held in Parc Floral offering our guests a great get-together and party strongly characteristic by a clear top-notch French imprint with great cuisine products by our top chefs and artisans, we will be offering other great and not to be forgotten British experience.”