The latest edition of Pitti Uomo was another hit. Although the show’s first day was slow, busier and more crowded days followed, which confirmed this destination as the kickoff of a seasonal must-see.
The first attendance data confirms stable results when compared with those registered in June 2017. This edition of Pitti Uomo closed registering a total of 19,400 buyers and 30,000 total visitors. Foreign guests have increased with positive performance from Germany, the UK, the Netherlands, France, the US and Canada although there is also relevant growth from Hong Kong and India. While there was a slight decline of visitors from Japan, China and Switzerland, Italian buyers, after some seasons of decreasing traffic, are slowly returning to Florence.
Best Pavillion: I Go Out
While disclosing novelties for s/s 2019 the show presented this highly energetic outdoor-inspired area hosting various under-the-radar apparel, footwear and accessory collections combining function and fashion. And Wander offered outdoor-meets-fashion semi-transparent protective parkas, micropattern functional sweats and shorts and innovative design nylon accessories. South2 West8, a Japanese fishing apparel brand, offers both a casual apparel line and a technical collection of jackets and tops characterized by cool camouflage patterns such as trout, duck and leaf prints. Special anti-mosquito nets are printed and employed for cool jackets. Also debuting was Woolrich Outdoor, a collection offering bright, colorful and ultra functional materials pieces to be worn both in the open air and in the city.
Trend of the moment: Streetwear
Almost every collection feels influenced by a strong love for streetwear and outdoor fashion. Comfy silhouettes and functional materials were prominent in Roberto Cavalli’s new collection and Fumito Ganryu’s newly launched eponymous collection. His comfy-cool contemporary looks play with XXL hooded sweatshirts and anti-fit functional trousers.
Best Relaunch: Siviglia
While many companies celebrate anniversaries like Rifle’s 60 years and Pepe Jeans’ 45th, others come back with special initiatives. Siviglia, a Made In Italy men’s trouser specialist that was recently acquired by Gilmar Group, presented its three most iconic trouser models–a five-pocket, a chino and a luxury denim style. The company involved a tightrope walker Andrea Loreni wearing Siviglia trousers for a short movie they broadcasted within the show.
Password of the season: Sustainability.
Various brands continue to believe in the importance of preserving the environment. Among them is North Sails, which is offering a series of capsules and product emphasizing the brand’s connection with life at the sea and regattas. It has launched a total-look collection entirely made by recycling PET bottles.
And Italian outer jacket 100% animal friendly brand Save The Duck has just launched its new line of Ocean is My Home jackets made with Nety, a fabric made from 100% recycled nylonnfishing nets. In addition, part of what the company will earn from selling this line of jackets will be donated to the Surfrider Foundation Europe, which cleans beaches and seas.
Also debuting was Sease, an “outdoor sports meets urban life” brand created by brothers Franco and Giacomo Loro Piana. It employs eco-friendly fibers such as Fulgar, a bio-based yarn Evo from castor seeds, regenerated denim by Italdenim and thermore Ecodown.
Must of the season: Color
Bright colors and lively prints are so on-trend next season. Orange, yellow, pink, red, green and blues are hues no one will go out without. Brands embracing it include Blauer, Woolrich, K-Way and Ten C and Original Penguin among others.
Color also rules at Paul&Shark that presented its new Nick Wooster X Paul&Shark collaboration capsule collection. The eclectic American designer has added fluo color touches to his capsule’s outfits.
Pony, the US historical sneaker brand, launched its new capsule collection Pony x Yong Baek Seok at Pitti. This collection’s signature is strong geometric colorful elements on both the upper and soles. This Korean designer has created important sneaker collections for Dolce & Gabbana, Diesel and Bally and is now head of design at the men’s sport division of Tod’s.
Harmont&Blaine, as part of its Heritage Collection, launched “Camicia 8 Tessuti”, an iconic shirt model made with a patchwork of eight fabrics from past successful shirt models.
Lotto is also celebrating its 45th anniversary and launched a series of new colorful running sneakers and a special model for Marco Cecchinato, the Italian tennis player who recently competed in the Roland-Garros semi-finals.
Denim debuts of the season
Among the first-timers in the premium denim market this season there is Giada, an Italian jeans manufacturer launching Hand Picked, a complete total-look collection 100% accurately made in Italy, employing Japanese denims for jeans and Loro Piana fabrics for polo shirts.
In addition, Replay has launched Replay Sportlab, a 25-piece capsule inspired by street and board sports and characterized by comfy fits and made with functional fabrics that can be worn when playing sports. These include a special indigo material that looks like denim but is as soft and comfortable as a sweatshirt.
Maurizio Donadi’s Atelier & Repair project focused on upcycling old casual pieces into new items has launched a new brand – Produce Better. This new line only offers jackets and tops made with raw Candiani Denim Fabric’s Re-Gen, a newly launched 100% regenerated denim treated with organic substances only.
Finally, exhibitor Richard J. Brown is another Made in Italy brand that wants to increase its presence internationally. This denim brand is designed and distributed through a prestigious Milan location, the former Fabbrica Ginori.