Pure London (12-14 Feb.) concluded on Tuesday afternoon, closing the doors to its longstanding venue at Olympia exhibition center in west London. Over 700 brands had gathered this season across womenswear, accessories and footwear – as well as a portion of menswear. A new athleisure section was introduced for the first time, presenting brands such as Miss Runner, Gilla Active and Elle Sport. To comment on the fair format, we felt that the show landscape lacked definition, with confusing brand adjacencies at times. On a more positive note, one of Pure’s strong points is its busy seminar program. Over the course of the three days, there were tips on how to set up an online fashion business, advice on buying and retailing athleisure apparel, and various ethics-focused forums on sustainability within the industry. Several WGSN buyers’ trend briefings, covering both womenswear and menswear, were also held.
Here are some of our favorite picks from the show’s denim and casualwear offerings:
Wåven’s delicate denim detailing
Wåven designer Anika Islam drew on Japanese architect Akihisa Hirata’s concept of ‘pattern in lines’ for her FW17 collection. The designer’s interpretation resulted in features such as delicate, geometric embroidery appearing as a tonal maze-like design applied to the sleeve of a blush pink denim coat. Elsewhere, embroidery materialized as a bit of swirly text at the back of a shoulder, and a linear animal face perched atop a jacket placket, in prime position right under the collar.
Cheap Monday’s bid to go greener
Crafted using recycled fibers made from post consumer waste, H&M owned brand Cheap Monday presented its new sustainable capsule collection at Pure. Catering for men and women, jeans hung next to longline denim jackets and placement print tees designed in collaboration with different creatives including Antwerp based graphic designer Tom Tosseyn; fashion illustrator and print designer Helen Bullock from London; and Berlin based influencer and designer Mago Dovjenko.
Bricktown World is smokin’
Two-year-old Parisian label Bricktown World has built a brand on a simple idea, inviting buyers to choose a motif and have it embroidered onto garments such as organic cotton tees, sweatshirts or hoodies. Each motif is available in small or large format. Selfridges and Colette are two of its major stockists. The embroidered cigarette motif is a bestseller, and we quite fancy the donut and the hotdog too.
Monkee Genes’ apparel drive
UK based ethical and organic jeanswear label Monkee Genes has added apparel to its extensive line of bottoms, of which the slim fit Emily is a women’s bestseller. Monkee Genes signature motif – the banana – was adorned on contrast sleeve sweatshirt dresses and tees, while brand logo hoodies also featured.
Mi-Pac’s latest additions
Affordable accessories brand Mi Pac has introduced a number of new styles for AW17. The XS, for instance, is a sleek mini backpack without the bulk of a front pocket. As for textures and prints, a tactile faux fur backpack hung next to an allover printed version based on roaring wild animals, while a cluster of designs crafted from khaki-grained faux leather took center stage in the booth.