Super hot temperatures didn’t discourage international visitors from crowding the recently closed 92nd edition of Pitti Uomo, held from Tuesday to Thursday this week (June 13-16).
The show grounds were pervaded by a very positive atmosphere and a feeling of hope that the present moment of recovery might consolidate and stick around for longer. At its closing time, the show registered 30,000 total visitors of which 19,000 were buyers. The amount of foreign visitors has remained stable when compared to 2016, while Italian visitor numbers have dropped between 8-9% - always considering that Pitti’s June 2016 installment was the record edition in attendance of the last ten years.
Raffaello Napoleone, CEO, Pitti Uomo, commented: "The Italian loss was partly caused by a public transportation strike happening these days. Speaking of foreign visitors we registered significant results especially considering the growth of buyers from Japan, Spain, USA, South Korea, Russia, Northern and Southern Europe, Australia and Canada. There were stable visits from France, Turkey and The Netherlands and a loss of visitors from China, UK and Germany (though German visitors and buyers are at the top of the list)."
Street- and sportswear is in the air
The show’s offer was dominated by a clear sporty and streetwear-minded direction. In addition to a constant presence of blazers made with cool and innovative fibers and materials, and the ruling of sneakers (even Christian Louboutin organized a bike polo tournament in the city for launching its sneaker line), street attitude, comfy silhouettes, wide hoodies, baggy or loose cropped trousers or wide shorts dominated the scene.
Also the (guest) designers Hugo, Virgil Abloh/Off White and J.W. Anderson focused on streety looks, with the latter showing wide jeans, often decorated with huge red embroideries of his logo, directly applied to the jeans or on wide fabric patches. Anderson declared: “When you wear a t-shirt and a pair of jeans there is nothing to add. Looking normal is not easy at all.” During his fashion show, the designer also launched a collaborative sneaker collection with Converse.
The ‘80s and ‘90s are overtly back as seen in many collections. Tommy Hilfiger’s Hilfiger Edition collection included oversize preppy looks. PS by Paul Smith, the British designer’s sportier line, opted for bright blue hues, comfier fits and casual pieces inspired by the cycling world.
Also the premium denim line The Cooper Collection by Lee Cooper opted for a return to the ‘80s and workwear with their pinstripe effect denims for modern tailor-made suits and uniform-inspired women’s dresses.
Wrangler continues its successful course of celebrating retro shapes and colors, most notably in their collection with Peter Max that was started last season.
Shades of (neon) green
Many green shades were seen around – either in military or camouflage variants (such as at Blauer, Roy Rogers or Herschel Supply) - or in bright pop and even neon shades as seen at Antony Morato, Mackage, Drykorn or the newly relaunched Penfield range.
Function meets fashion
Lightweight nylons and breathable materials were in demand as seen in brightly colored jackets at Mackage or K-Way. Herschel Supply showcased their extended outerwear collection (started last season with raincoats) that included many lightweight coat and jacket variants and a funky printed lightweight product, made in collaboration with Hoffman California Fabrics.
Traiano launched a stretch jacket that can be washed in the washing machine at 30° but never loses its shape and beauty, made – as most of the collection - with Sensitive Fabrics by Eurojersey. In the well-received Touch! area, Japanese brand Snow Peak presented its range of super creative technical-but-stylish apparel and accessories.
Moonboot launched its first urban luxury collection, debuting in November 2017 for f/w 2017/2018. Their ankle boots and sneakers are also meant to be worn in the city and not only for the après-ski.
Believe it or not, but short-sleeved shirts are finally getting the attention they have not deserved for a long time. Many brands showcased creatively printed versions with fruit prints (lemons, melons, oranges) being amongst the most used themes. Especially widely seen were pajama collared versions such as the broad variety by Afield with lovely Cuban prints.
Also shirt sleeved knitted polos are having a moment with John Smedley’s version setting the tone.
Surfing and beach themes invaded many collections – ranging from heaps of little beach-themed embroideries (such as the little palm and “Definitely Miami” stitchings at Dutch brand The Goodpeople) to heavy surf inspiration at Levi’s Made & Crafted, manifesting in dip dyes and boxy, loosely knitted beach hoodies.
For more information on trade shows check out DFV Group’s expocheck.com.