New York’s “queen bee” of womenswear shows, UBM’s Coterie, appeared to be an even bigger behemoth this season, featuring literally thousands of brands and occupying three levels of the massive Jacob Javits Center during its three day run February 26-28. Coterie “proper” took place on Level 3 and included the four sections Edit (curated and luxury contemporary RTW), Footwear, TMRW (advanced contemporary and emerging lines) and Active, a new section curated by Corinna Springer that included workout brands and wellness stations. There was also a Beauty area near the registration desk that was open to the public.
The building’s Lower Level, meanwhile, included Coterie’s sister/sub shows Stitch, Sole Commerce, Fame, Moda and Children’s Club. And Level Four was home to 17 eveningwear labels.
Obviously, navigating and shopping such a huge assortment requires focus and planning so I did focus: on denim and sportswear. Here are some highlights, which are clearly a mere “drop in the bucket” of what was to be found at Coterie this season….
Among the many jeanswear highlights was the recently relaunched collection of Edwin in North America. Big and baggy boyfriend styles are its current bestsellers but the real standout was jean jacket with two “back pockets” that looked like the seat of a pair of jeans.
The iconic American brand is releasing its first globally launched collection for fall 2018 and it is a retro-looking winner filled with modern takes on vintage jeans in shades of “throwback blue,” tradition Western pieces (think a cowboy shirt transformed into a shirt dress) and colorful graphic tees, etc. The bottoms will retail for $98 to $118 while the super-cute jackets will be priced from $128 to $148.
Wrangler X Peter Max
Shown in a booth separate and aisles away from the main Wrangler line, this collaboration with the famous artist, which was relaunched last year in honor of Wrangler’s 70th birthday, is preparing to wrap yet again with great graphics, cute mixed denim cut-and-sew items and eye-catching promotional cardboard pocket signage.
The Turkish denim giant is all about decorative ankle hems and cuffs for fall and is offering some terrific ones in fringed bell-bottom style or rolled up and embellished with faux pearls.
This affordable (under $100) Australian brand continues to grow slowly and organically in The States since it entered the US market five years ago. Best known for its high-rise flares, its jeans with a yoke-less backside are another signature style.
The longtime Canadian jeans veteran still operates his Parasuco line out of Montreal but has also just launched this fully eponymous Made in LA denim and non-denim collection of 28 women’s pieces and 16 men’s with new Italian partners. It boasts a true rock ‘n’ roll edge and includes leathers that are priced as high as $3,000.
Located in the TMRW section, this young, hip Turkish brand made its US debut at Coterie. Mixing denim, leather and other materials its oft-edgy details include bondage lacing on the sleeves of its sweatshirts, for instance.
A Korean export that has shown at NYFW for two seasons now, this TMRW brand’s eclectic collection for fall is based on a modern Marie Antoinette complete with faux fur, bright colors and plenty of embellishments. The buyer for the 3NY concept store in SoHo stopped by the booth and said to report that it was his bestselling/favorite brand.
Scotch & Soda
According to US CEO Ari Hoffman, this Dutch brand just continues to grow and make retail inroads (via its own stores and otherwise) in The States. And it’s easy to see why. The highly wearable fall collection includes great women’s suiting pieces, fantastic colorblocked items, a vibrant palette, loud prints and other numerous standout items such as a faux fur leopard coat.
Once mostly a T-shirt line, the brand has evolved of late into more active offerings. Highlights for the season include star graphics, #girlpower themes, reversible printed leggings and a sweatsuit in a highly unusual hatchi thermal fabric.