On Monday, the 36th edition of the Modefabriek, which took place at RAI in Amsterdam from January 26 – 27, 2014 closed its doors. “We are very happy how the trade show turned out, there were a lot of people visiting and we have had a very positive response from the retailers so far,” stated Nieke Mulder from Modefabriek.

Already at the first day on Sunday the halls were crowded, but the atmosphere was still relaxed. “I really like coming to the Modefabriek, you can find all the important brands, but the surrounding is much more chilled-out and not so hectic like at other trade shows and I really like how the fair is now divided in the new brand segments,” said a retailer from Amsterdam.

Some exihibitors complimented the Bluezone area but also critizised the lack of an international audience at the tradeshow: "We can say about the Blue Print area that you can definitely see that Amsterdam is going up in the Denim Scene. Small brands are appearing and it's nice to see them surviving and growing each year. It is sad that the Blue Print area was only a small part of the fair and it would have been much better if there were more international visitors. For us it's always nice to see and meet people in the industry, that's one of the reasons for participating. Although we feel that the next step for us is to attend international fairs next year. Especially because the fashion fair in Amsterdam doesn't attract international buyers", said Elza and Joost founders of accessories brand Atelier de L'Armee.

The new layout was divided into four segments and introduced for the first time at the Modefabriek: The Pavilion, The Frame, The Floor and The Square, which contained the new platforms Salon and Stage.

Labels like By Boe BY, Fresh Collections and Innamorato presented their collections at The Pavilion - the segment for fashion-conscious labels. The Frame was launched as the segment for “international leaders of the fashion and denim markets” with brands like Current//Elliott, Denham, Eleven Paris, Herschel Supply Co. and Just Female. The Floor segment featured a fast-moving range of on-trend fashion presenting labels like Anna Scott, Bench, Camper, Denim Hunter, George Gina & Lucy and M.O.D. Last but not least, sports, leisure and business-wear labels like Alberto, British Indigo, Napapjiri and Peuterey were represented at The Square.

But also the ‘older’ platforms like Blueprint, Mint, Chapter and Next had been refined. The Blueprint segment was all about denim and contemporary streetwear brands like Lee, Pepe, Japan Blue, KOI and Kuyichi but also brands that put a strong focus on craftsmanship like Amsterdam based denim brand BDD or the accessories brand Atelier de L’Armee displayed at Blueprint.

Again the Next platform spotlighted eight new international young designer labels including Rick Lee (IT), Vonschwanenflügelpupke (DE), Odeur (SE), Leyre Valiente (SP), Toos Franken (BE), First of August (NL), Melissa Siegrist (NL) and PCL (NL).

In terms of fashion, two trends were dominant. On the one hand there was a strong influence of Scandinavian clean chic mixed with a sportswear attitude. Clear and simple silhouettes, slightly oversized, chunky tops, leather mesh tops, jogging pants in cold colors like white, grey, light-blue and black were seen in a lot of collections like First of August, The Haunted, Carin Wester or Franzel. The clean and simple chic also dominated the accessories segment. Simple leather backpacks and shoppers without any extras were seen everywhere.

On the other hand brands like Catwalk Junkie, Gwynedds and Kultivate showed bold prints on t-shirts, tops and pants. Everything that is related to religious symbols seems to be a hot trend. Whether it is Da Vinci’s angels, the Holy Mary or just a print of stained glass. The animal for F/W 2014 seems to be the bird- in all variations.