According to Paul Harvey, C.P. Company’s co-designer, layering is the future of menswear. To that end, Harvey and his design partner Alessandro Pungetti had built the latest range with layer friendly options in mind, bringing in more outerwear pieces in longer lengths than previously. Casely-Hayford yet again flaunted its mix and match abilities by teaming pieces of various lengths, textures and cuts to form a cohesive whole. Craig Green, meanwhile, sent out oversize padded uniforms designed in the same vein as his critically acclaimed spring offering. Voluminous “trance pants” also featured, often in combination with fitted long sleeved tees crudely manipulated into shape with the help of what looked like a trainee surgeon’s shaky hand.
Color continues to advance on the menswear arena. Kit Neal’s Circus inspired fall offering was fittingly zingy, and it was made even more so with the addition of naively decorative brooches and earrings crafted by the inimitable artist and jeweler Andrew Logan. Bold hues took center stage at Hentsch Man, too. The cobalt blue and emerald green looks complemented the red walls of the old sex cinema in which the grunge themed presentation was held. Alex Mattsson, in turn, used blocks of green, yellow and lilac to accentuate his take on modular streetwear, which involved interchangeable pockets. Cmmn Swdn settled for a single combination of hues, true blue denim and orange, against a dark backdrop. This pairing ran through the collection that subversively united the contrasting influences of British subculture and luxe Italian fashion, a direction that was easily identifiable in pieces crafted from denim bonded with wool. Other denim news was unveiled at the LC:M showrooms. London Denim introduced its first men’s line of jeans and gently frayed sweatshirts, while Snake & Dagger showed washes and handcrafted treatments such as repetitive distressing and a heavily applied sand and resin.