ENK’s Coterie, the “mother” of the New York womenswear trade shows at least when it comes to size, ended a three-day run of its latest edition at the Javits Center in midtown Manhattan yesterday. The massive show was held on three levels of the complex and featured approximately 1,500 exhibitors from the fields of ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear.

New at Coterie this season was the Denim @ Coterie section, an area on the third floor. It featured 50 denim or denim-friendly brands that spanned from the well-known (Hudson, AG Adriano Goldschmied and 7 for All Mankind) to several promising newcomers including Better in Blue, Chrldr, Crosby, Eugene is My Middle Name and McGuire. Better in Blue wowed with innovative washes and a wolf-print jean with the creature’s face on the knees; Chrldr (pronounced “cheerleader”) by Hardip Manku of Plain Jane is a new line of cheeky women’s tees and hats; Crosby is by Mavi veteran Ron Gelfuso and offers jeans made with Isko denim with leather, studs and other details for $150 at retail; Eugene is My Middle Name from LA showed laser-distressed jeans with the distressing in the shape of its hummingbird logo and McGuire seriously impressed with its workwear-inspired but still very feminine looks.

Trendwise, muted palettes dominated at AG, DL 1961 and Eugene is My Middle Name, for example, while rich, traditional blues were the big story at Fidelity. Key silhouettes for the season were takes on the boyfriend look and variations of the moto jean.

Unusual fabrics and textures also dominated. DL 1961, for instance, showed a jean with an eyelet front while Crosby had models made with woven brocade denims.

While Zahra Ahmed of DL 1961 reported that her booth was “slammed all three days” most other exhibitors expressed dissatisfaction with being segregated from the main show floor downstairs, which inexplicably housed a handful of other denim brands such as Mother, Agave and RTA – Road to Awe, a new denim brand from LA that is feminine yet street-based and already distributed internationally. One Denim @ Coterie exhibitor, who asked not to be named, even bluntly groused, “This area sucks!”

Coterie’s main floor once again housed the TMRW area, a section devoted to about 50 up-and-coming brands. Aside from domestic brands such as Skingraft, the San Francisco-based footwear line Freda Salvador, which is known for its removable hardware, and Pvblic, which had a Madagascar-themed collection this season, TMRW showcased numerous collections from Korea this time These included Goenjo, which included prints created by the designer’s painter husband; Kye, which featured metallic bandages as a theme; lovely womenswear line Paul & Alice and Grafik: Plastic, a line of usually oversized eyewear that retails for $250 a pair. What makes Grafik: Plastic especially interesting, however, is that the glasses’ bows can be easily switched out and alternated if one buys additional sets.

Coterie’s next edition will take place at the Javits Center in February 2014.

Be sure to check out the accompanying gallery to see some of our favorite items and brands we saw at the show.