The S/S 10 edition of Stockholm Fashion Week drew to a close on Sunday, Aug. 16, and that the recession had taken its toll on the Swedish fashion scene was evident: the only runway shows taking place were those by Saga Lova, Camilla Wellton and Chambre Separée, a showroom with names like Funcken Design, Ulf Andersson and Heart of Lovikka on its books. Instead most designers, including Ida Pyk, Ulrika Sandström and Nina Jarebrink, invited press and buyers to attend events in alternative formats, be it showroom presentations or short films. One of the week’s most anticipated brands, Jojo & Malou, for example, exhibited its playful Miss World-inspired collection at Urban Outfitters’ Stockholm store. The showcase will stay open to the public through Aug. 30.

On the trade show front, Agenturföretagen (the Swedish Association of Agents), NSV (Nordic Shoe & Bag Fair) and Bomullsbörsen exhibited together for the first time at a new venue, Factory in Nacka Strand. The streetwear fair Boutique Fräsh, meanwhile, stayed at Berns in central Stockholm, with WeSC, Skansk, Elvine, Sean John, Vans, Zion Clothing, Pelle Pelle, Nikita, Caliroots, Dragon and Element among the 100 brands showing at the fair.

Since Rookies &Players exited the SFW trade show circuit, it has morphed into an annual award scheme to promote young Swedish talent. Each year, three nominees are selected and this year saw Matilda Wendelboe, Patouf and Farzan Esfahani compete for the title of Rookie of the Year 2009. This year’s winner was Patouf, a womenswear label focusing on feminine cuts and a play on volume and structure. As part of the prize, Patouf’s designer, Anna Angseryd, has been invited to design a small collection for La Redoute.

—Emma Holmqvist