The winter collection took inspiration from the American Military Theater of Operations in Europe during the Second World War, and was reminiscent of both sides, the Western as well as the Eastern European military. The palette consisted mainly of sober black, white and gray. Traditional cotton, waxed cotton and wool suiting fabrics were set off by rubberized cotton fabric utilized in outerwear pieces. Coats were based on standard protective gear. Heavy woolen sweaters add texture, and a set of sublty dyed lightweight sweaters and cotton t-shirts worked as a new breed of camouflage whilst graphic t-shirts that were soft, heavily washed standards, accented the collection.

The German, Antwerp-based designer favored a simple and relaxed chic, youthful but never boyish. The silhouette appeared softer and rounder - yet not blown up – and with padded shirts, jackets and blousons and slightly loose fitted pants. Fabrics such as cotton, moleskine and wool stressed the understated nature of a collection that worked with small, almost invisible mistakes in the patterns to create a subtle imperfection. The tones were all matte, with colors ranging from black to gray and brown shades with green-blue as a single colorful note. Tartans or pinstripes softly broke the simplicity without leaning too much into any obvious and well-known fashion theme such as country, instead keeping an overall view.

Bohemian Chic was the topic of the Ungaro winter show. Spencer jackets or Redingote coats with soft, slightly voluminous shoulders were combined with either baggy or slim trousers that hovered between a casual and dandy attitude. Oversize shawls were draped almost like ponchos. Shades of blue and beige, micro patterns, Prince of Wales, herringbone and caviar served the elegant attitude well, and materials were in a variety of tweed, flannel, cashmere, cashmere and silk, plunged lamb, suede foalskin and sheepskin. An emphasis was put on the waist with stretch belts worn over the coats. Details show U-shaped cuts for pockets and elbow pads, zips, studs and buckles in pink gold, cuffs with open buttonhole and turn-ups in handmade, diagonal knit.

The German newcomer presented his menswear and some womenswear looks at a catwalk show in the Tranoï location Palais de la Bourse, voting for softer silhouettes, sporty and relaxed yet with a tailored attitude, as pictured above. Layered looks with regular fitted pants (worn in the socks), tunic-shaped shirts under slim cotton cardigans and lightweight parkas offered a variation for guys, refined with details such as zippers or varying seams. The color palette was vivid with brown-orange, dirty red and seablue with notes of gray, brown and black. Denim featured in regular fits with more volume for the thighs, soft stone washed effects and the pants were often turned up in a “undone”, accidental way.

– Sabine Kühnl | Executive Editor