The word on the street post-show at the former Barnes & Nobles flagship store on Chelsea was that designer Yohji Yamamoto didn’t quite push the envelope far enough. Indeed, this season’s backdrop was an abandoned loft space and florescent lamps suspended vertically from the ceiling. It was, overall, an unaffected collection, with minor tweaks to Y-3 basics, but if there was an overarching theme it was one of lightness, from fiery red paper-like cropped boleros to the sheer maxi dresses and pants for both guy and girls. For the most part, tank-dresses were sleeveless and stripes were in big order. Yamamoto also toyed with the idea of dirndl skirts—a touch gothic—and ultra lightweight, sheer cardigan pastel knits with contrast piping for guys. Other hits included white and black striped jazz shoes for the girls. The only obvious tie-back to the weirdly addictive electro soundtrack was a retro-looking sunglass screenprinted tee. If discord was a theme, it’s worth pointing out Yamamoto’s finale of a white, frothy wedding dress, reminiscent of dresses from his own label.


According to the program notes, Tim Hamilton’s spring show was both inspired by Frank Stella’s brand of minimalism and futuristic streetwear. The result was a collection that had a strong graphic focus—black, white, gray stripes, scooping necklines, color blocks—but also a contrasting softness and sheen, courtesy of oiled-looking trenchcoats. In all, the collection wasn’t as luxe as fall, but what Hamilton did do was take current new menswear classics, such as the bib-front tuxedo shirt or fine-knit cardigan, to a sportier, more youthful limit.