Day 2 of Fashion Week featured strong presentations by newcomers such as Unconditional and Hood by Air with their inventive silhouettes. Here, some other notable collections.


Toni Maticevski certainly disappoint clients with separates ranging from a silk tulle blouse with twisted, padded epaulettes to a sleek embroidered wool skirt with a drop waist tie before moving to fitted silk dresses with fluted hems and lot of seaming and panels. Although he went all out on a flapper style white short dress with panels of fringe with flourishes of beading and strings of pearls, he also showed by via of little embroidered flowers down the placket of a black sheer jacket evidence of a good hand and daring at working the whole transparency thing.


Karen Walker’s collection was pleasing in so many ways it was even hard not to like her shirt-short tobacco mosaic take on the whole pajama trend. The collection, anchored by sporty, looser proportions (think dolman sleeves) in separates and solid colors (mainly blue), also included fresh prints, including variations on wicker and leopard patterns.


Alexander Wang opened his show on a strong sportswear note, with snappy faded denim/leather jackets and oxford shirts to breezy oversized sweatshirt dress crepe de chine open back shirt-dresses in blue. At times, this show felt like a “best of”—we have seen the idea of a fully Swarovski encrusted double-breasted blazer dress before and Wang has made the cropped A-line blazer with three-quarter length sleeves his own—but what Wang did well this season was to expand his stable of reintepretations of classic American sportswear, from a midrift-baring leather pocket tank and a sexy tank swimsuit in T-shirt jersey to a casual, speckled off-shoulder jersey top with a folded neckline. The “it” sweater for next season just might be an oversized chunky intarsia cardigan that looked like a moth had gone to town on it. There was even a heather gray cotton sweatshirt with a leather fringe on the back—precisely the stuff of tomorrow’s trendsetting girls about town.


Uptown in the tents, Alexandre Herchcovitch put on another inventive show, transforming the structure of a military-inspired uniform into a new, delicate and feminine silhouette. It was a collection that might be remembered for a khaki jumpsuit with printed ruffles exploding naughtily from the crotch and rear, but also for exquisite mosaic/jigsaw-like embroidered dresses awash in color and metallics and a multitude of influences ranging from flowers to Middle Eastern tapestry that literally fluttered by. The program notes suggested Herchcovitch wanted to create “an army of love and beauty.” Indeed, by the time the show had ended with an Ottoman-style uniform rendered in sheer pastel silks with oversized cascading ruffles as epaulettes, we were convinced.