From Upper East Side “Gossip Girl”-like polish at Lorick to the urban outback at Yigal Azrouel, the New York spring collections, which started on Thursday, have been awash with grown-up sobriety. By Friday, designers were already showing clear trends, which included looser and feminine, lightweight fabrications, transparency, layering, fall-like colors, color blocking, big prints, sexier bodies in jersey and pants fuller through the tops for girls. For guys, the collections have been about checked shirts, skinny trousers, cuffed shorts and stripes.

BCBG Max Mazria had a particularly strong show, tweaking what could have been very dull canvas crepe dresses with sophisticated wrap detailing and playing up a new sporty, casual aspect with short jersey jumpsuits and shirt-dresses. Even a grayish polyurethane jacket to the wineberry/teal color blocked dresses with brightly colored linings peeping were modern but quietly so.

Also offering quiet presentations were Generra, with its youthful parchment cotton blend anoraks, shift dresses and tops in light blues, ash and gray, and Jenni Kayne with her chambray shirts and trousers in gray and blue denim, floral watercolor silk organza tanks and versatile silk crepe de chine blouses.

Rag & Bone’s collection hit an entirely different note. Inspired by Joy Division’s front man Ian Curtis, recently the subject of the film “Control,” the collection was inexplicably aggressive and too literal (perhaps too edited?) with its skinhead uniforms, complete with skinny check shirts and jeans (must-have) and suspenders, that in many ways seemed at odds with its cool, mod-inspired suiting, modern parkas and daring styling. One outfit, for example, paired a distressed black leather jacket with a cotton tee, a black and white houndstooth tailored cotton waistcoat and houndstooth skinny jean. At the same time, silk dupioni worked into black jersey or cut into one of the brand’s signature cropped blazer silhouettes didn’t quite nail the idea of a mash-up.

What Shipley & Halmos lacked in direction was made up by solid shirting and strong outerwear pieces, ranging from a skinny black trenchcoat with traditional suit lapels and black leather blazer to a cropped yellow mac and a notably chic khaki jacket for women.

And similar in feeling to Cushnie & Ochs’s debut presentation of revisited “body con” dresses with their stark palette and sexy lines, cut-outs and high waists, Alice McCall’s show entitled “Some are not insects” offered trippy bug prints on floaty black, white and yellow separates, as well as embroidery detailing on shoulders and gauzy “shell” dresses with burnout motifs.

New York Fashion Week continues through Friday, September 12.