At this year's Paris trade fairs, in addition to the established brands, it was possible to discover many young labels that want to enrich the fashion market with fresh ideas and take up current trends, such as the vegan movement or ecological production. Here are five our favorites:
With 30 years of industry experience, Massimo Sorgenti is not only a veteran in fashion, but also a collector of vintage fashion, which he reworked under his brand Be Luis into unique artistically designed jeans jackets. With shoes the Italian from Parma had little in mind. But then he came up with the idea of giving the cowboy boots more comfort. "Normal cowboy boots from America are made of calf leather and pretty stiff. I wanted to have a model that was flexible and comfortable,” he explains. Said, done: His collection, launched two seasons ago under the name Texas Robot, is made of buttery soft goatskin with a distinctive and wide rubber outsole similar to that on sneakers. The result is a stylish, comfortable trend shoe in fancy colors with a touch of rock 'n’ roll. Everything is 100% made in Italy, in the Marche region. The wholesale prices are €149 to €195.
Contact via www.areteshowroom.com
The DollyandMolly brand from Tokyo has existed in Asia since 2009. Three seasons ago, however, the founder, who named his brand after his two daughters and wants to stay in the background, decided to reorganize the enterprise together with a partner and a new strategy. The rebranding is also accompanied by internationalization. The women-oriented collection, which also follows the gender-bending trend, is heavily influenced by the Tokyo street culture. For the summer of 2019 also punk elements and the subcultures of the ’70s are evoked. The target group is Generation Z. In keeping up with the vegan movement, DollyandMolly tries to avoid materials of animal origin and uses, above all, synthetic fibers such as nylon or polyurethane. The collection is completely produced in South Korea. Wholesale prices for trousers are around €75, jackets €130 and coats €175.
An An Londree
The label An An Londree from Austria, started in 2016, impressively demonstrates that eco-fashion can be luxurious and fashionable. The two founders, Andrea Harisch and Angelika Paschbeck, who are based in Kitzbühl (Austria) and Munich (Germany), use only natural materials and attach great importance to social and ecological conditions during production in consideration of the carbon footprint. Paschbeck says, "The whole collection is made in India within a radius of 20 kilometers: there it is woven, printed and tailored by hand. Everything in small family businesses we know personally.” For the summer of 2019, An An Londree has put on silk and silk crepe. The fabric patterns are all self-designed and exclusive. Fabric remnants are processed into belts and other small accessories. (“There is nothing left!” Paschbeck says.) The two designers also pay attention to plastic avoidance when it comes to packaging. Retail prices range between €155 and €240.
Elvira Panagiotopoulou already has an impressive fashion career behind her: this young Greek woman grew up in Paris and worked after her marketing and communication studies at such famous houses as Dolce & Gabbana, Vionnet, Narciso Rodriguez and Balmain before starting in 2015 with her first own label, a shoe line called Di Gaia. Although the collection was well received, the graduate of the Istituto Marangoni startedwith a new project in 2018: This time under the brand name Phi-male, a combination of the Greek letter and the English word "female.” For Panagiotopoulou, this name is a combination of harmony and feminine desire for mixing combinations. Her shoes, a mix of espadrilles and sandals, which she calls “City Espadrilles,” are only at first glance the same and combine two different motifs, which come together symmetrically to form a single entity. The sandals are made in Spain and consist of embroidered satin ribbons, which are lined with leather. The soles are decorated and circled with braided jute bands like espadrilles. It's a mix of urban elegance with a touch of ethno. Wholesale prices are €55 to €59.
The creative power that comes when two people of different nationalities come together is proved by the French textile designer Lucie Bourreau and her Indian husband Bapan Dutta. The two met at the Ecole Nationale Supérieur des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and started six years ago with a collection of scarves and cloth bags. They called their line Mii, an Indian acronym for "Made in India.” In 2017, this collection of accessories was transformed into a whole collection for women with dresses, trousers, blouses and jackets. It is designed in Paris, and produced in Kolkata, formerly Calcutta, where all items are woven, printed and tailored. Mii uses only high-quality cotton fabrics, silk and cashmere as well as cotton-silk blend. Dutta says: "With this collection we also want to preserve the craftsmanship from West Bengal and pay attention to social standards and old techniques. All embroideries are handmade.” The collection captivates with the high quality of fabrics and a strong color message, as well as very contemporary design. The wholesale prices for clothes range between €80 and €100.