Despite delays in high-speed trains and international airports blocked because of snow and ice, the Premiere Vision Pluriel shows held in Paris between Feb. 9 and 12 registered an increase in visitors. The event, comprising Expofil, Premiere Vision, Indigo, Le Cuir à Paris, ModAmont and Zoom by Fatex, previewed the S/S 11 collections and was visited by 40,870 fashion professionals, 5% more than a year ago.

Meanwhile, the percentage of international visitors was 71% of the total with significant increases, particularly among European countries (+3.9%). Among the countries that reported increases were Sweden (+21%), The Netherlands (+15.4%), Great Britain (+11.9%) and Italy (+8.5%). France reported a growth of 5.6%, as did the Baltic countries including Latvia, up 66.7%, and Lithuania, up 44.2%.

Russia showed a notable improvement (+41.3%) and for the first time was ranked among the top 15 visiting countries. Ukraine was represented by 21.6% more visitors, while Turkey (+31.7%) now ranks ninth among the visiting countries. Among the Asian countries, Japanese and Chinese attendance weakened, but South Korea (+45.1%) and Hong Kong (+31.7%) strengthened their presence. Countries in the Americas also saw increases – Mexico (+38.4%), Chile (+25%), Brazil (+23%) and the United States (+15.7%).

Overall, the show continued to recall the attention of fashion insiders. Said Sebastien Gass, Head of Product management, Swatch (Switzerland): “I have to come to Premiere Vision, even though we have to find applications that are specific to the watch and jewelry sectors, which are obviously not found here. But Premiere Vision remains a must-see appointment for its transversal impact.”

One of the trends recognized by most visitors was a general shift toward more relaxed fashions with the boundaries between tailoring and casual wear increasingly blurred. Finishings originating in sportswear are broadening their areas of influence, emerging in more refined segments. Two main elements are emerging from fabric collections: on the one side, decorative opulence, and on the other, more defined fluid aspects.

The show, newly redesigned with white translucent Corian, was generally appreciated for its more modern, futuristic appeal as well as its sense of freshness and simplicity.

The next edition of Premiere Vision will be held Sept. 14-16. The event focusing on F/W 11-12 previews will be condensed to a three-day event in response to exhibitors’ feedback, buyers’ work schedules and those who want a more concentrated formula.

—Maria Cristina Pavarini