Men's Fashion Week in Paris was particularly extensive for the winter 2019-20 season: in addition to a six-day, densely packed show calendar, various showroom events and trade fairs were held. Man/Woman exhibited for the first time at three locations in the city center, Tranoi at two (Stock Exchange and Bastille) and Porte de Versailles hosted Who's Next, which is normally held in front of the shows. From this rich offer we have filtered out the most important trends.
The return of tailoring
In times when sportswear has become normal clothing and even office fashion is sportswear-like, there had to be a turnaround. It has now arrived. Tailoring is back and can even be seen on the catwalks of the most famous streetwear brands such as Off-White, OAMC and Vetements. Conservative brands that have become more sporty in recent years, such as Hermès or Louis Vuitton by Virgil Abloh, are returning to their roots. At trade fairs, too, there are frequent collections of classic blazers, coats, trousers with pleats–and even suits. The French brand Archive 18-20 shows with hoodies under the jacket how this trend can be styled in a modern way. Traditional wool materials are preferred in the fabrics and blazers and jackets are available in the classic suit colors gray and black. The patterns are conservative pinstripes and classic suit checks. As part of this revival, straight-cut check coats are also returning: they are available from the Japanese menswear label Still By Hand, the US brand Ovadia & Sons, Oliver Spencer from Great Britain or the Swedish unisex supplier Adnym Ateliers.
Down jackets: very thick
The down jacket has been a bestseller for years. In the last seasons, thin qualities predominated, which are also suitable for dressing down. Now, however, the puffer jackets are again as voluminous as they were in the ’90s. The quilting is also reminiscent of its predecessors: there are a few large-format chambers. The already striking winter jacket becomes even more an eye-catcher thanks to shiny nylon outer fabrics in silver or metallic colors. While most models, such as Flo & Clo, Louis Vuitton or Clairval, have a purely fashionable character, some manufacturers, such as the Japanese brand Descente Allterrain or the Italian company Holubar, also add functional elements to the trendy jacket.
Sneakers are still predominant in many collections, but for the coming winter more and more mountain boots are coming into fashion. The new, fashionable hiking boots are partly reminiscent of authentic mountain shoes in design, but real functional materials are rarely used. Nevertheless, many suppliers have attached importance to a good rubber sole, and some also use the high-quality Vibram brand. For example, there’s Diemme and Pezzol 1951, a specialist for boots for mine and oil platform workers, where the reinforced steel toe cap is at the fashionable version reinforced with a layer of rubber against water. The Roa brand and Camper also implemented the trend with a material mix of different fabrics and leather in colorful versions. All in the style of the latest trendy sneaker designs.
Cord as a trend material
The rule that men's fashion often follows the trends of women's fashion is true for the material corduroy. This fabric could be seen in almost every men's fashion collection in the coming winter season. Soft qualities in wide cord are particularly popular. The soft and warming winter fabric is implemented in the form of wide trousers, jackets and shirts. Warm earth tones such as cognac and camel predominate as trend colors. But there are also many shades of green this season. This was seen at the label Frisur from Germany, Still by Hand from Japan, Homecore and Bleu de Paname from France, OOF Wear from Italy, Oliver Spencer from UK and the US brands Telfar and U.P.W.W.
Flannel shirts in classic check
The American and Canadian lumberjack shirt, which Hedi Slimane during his time as creative director at Saint Laurent catapulted from the hiking and worker scene into the luxury genre, has taken a short break after the hype five years ago, but is now back at the forefront of trends. Fashion labels such as Vetements, Off-White, White Mountaineering and many others sent the fashion classic over the catwalk, but the check shirt could also frequently be found at trade fairs. In addition to specialist suppliers such as the US company Gitman Vintage, which uses triple-twisted yarn, and the brand Portuguese Flannels from Porto, which combines the flannel softly with a special brush, many others are also focusing on the rustic trend: Leon & Harper offers models for ladies, while Frisur from Berlin focuses on solid, monochrome versions in particularly thick, warm fabric for men.