Sharp lines, classic overcoats, heavy wools, thick knitwear, navy and moccasin-sneakers — such were the strongest trends at (capsule), the bi-annual showcase of progressive contemporary menswear here in New York, which continued to shine by virtue of its focus, international assortment and directional offerings.

Add to that a lock on the world’s best retailers. Although brands reported an absence of major members of the press, currently in Europe for the shows, the general consensus was that buyers from larger to smaller independent stores in Canada were out in full force at the show and writing orders, even on an American holiday.

Notable apparel brands at the show included newcomers Creep and Norsea Industries that offered stiff-as-cardboard, sporty canvas and heavy wool separates on the upper levels of the show. Meanwhile, thick and luxurious outerwear in shades of tobacco or black and colorful Fair Isle-inspired knits was a common thread among brands on the ground level, whether interpreted with a Navajo (April 77), fisherman’s (Hope) or a uniform (General Idea) twist. Outerwear also came in quilted, crushed leather and varsity-inspired variations at Wood Wood, which showcased a mustard jumpsuit and Dietrich-cut trousers for women. Meanwhile, Gilded Age offered one of the best collections at the show, with its bell-shaped, garment-dyed herringbone and tartan blazers and cotton henleys, structured mac and double-faced flannel shirts.

The lower level of the show was primarily a footwear showcase of cool footwear lines including Abington Collection by Timberland, Collection by Creative Recreation, Generic Surplus and Gourmet. Red Wing, only just a hit now Stateside, also showed. Seattle-based Maiden Noir offered solid Madras check flannel shirts with innovative chest pockets, waxed outerwear and luxurious gray selvage jeans.

(capsule) show organizers left New York last night to host its second edition of (capsule) Paris in the Marais. It remains the only American show in its league to have gone abroad.