When entering Bread & Butter this morning, the first thing to notice was the immense new “Clockwork Restaurant”. In large-scale dining areas like these, people shall get together – and that’s what surely happened on the first day of the trade show’s winter edition.

Stylewise, both the gangways and the booths were packed with some old acquaintances such as camouflage pattern, ikat or ethno inspirations, neon colors, coated denims and bouclé jackets but also with some new themes. Generally, neoprene and other functional or intelligent fabrics will play a big role in fall/winter 2013 and there seems to be a strong tendency towards a more sophisticated, design-heavy and cleaner look.

Exhibitors showed happy with with the quality of attendants. Ricardo Meyer, Managing Director of Gsus Sindustries for Germany: “We want to reconquer the German market and for that we need to focus on all the big retailers and department stores who can convey the image of our brand. So far, we have really had all the big department stores at our booth and they all showed real interest in the brand, which is great.”

But the brands were also keen to welcome a very international audience. Melanie Hahn, Clarks: "It has already been really crowded at our booth and we had a lot of international clients from England, France and Holland.“ Similar war reported by Pierre Boiselle, Sales & Marketing Coordinator at Edwin: “There have been a lot of English, Danish and Dutch visitors, but also a lot more French than in recent years.”

Whilst Edwin was to be found in its usual neighborhood in the L.O.C.K. area, a department as clearly selected and comprehensive in its brand structure as ever, a lot of location changes took place in the “new” Urban Base (former Denim Base)and the Urban Fashion halls. The new positioning certainly proved beneficial for the brands who are now more prominently exposed such as New Era or Marc O’Polo. The Urban Base gives the big names a big presentation space with exceptional booths from names such as Scotch & Soda, Antony Morato, G-Star, Adidas Originals, Marc O’Polo, Khujo or Pepe Jeans.

The majority of attendants seemed to agree on the fact that the market is changing and that this entails changes for yourself – being it a brand changing its collection direction, a retailer changing its buying habits and locations or a trade show modifying its concept. Shubhankar Ray, Global Brand Director G-Star said: "When the market changes, you have to change as well. Now you have to specialize. And BBB does the same specialization as we do it." His colleague Patrick Kraaijeveld, G-Star Chief Creative/Commercial Officer, agreed: “You have to fight for your things as times have become harder. But we believe much in this event. We used BBB as a platform and we are very happy with it.”