Bread & butter, running concurrently with Premium and Berlin Fashion Week, is celebrating a big homecoming at its new location in Berlin’s Tempelhof Airport.

As announced at the press conference this morning 25,000 visitors from some 89 countries are in attendance the first day. Most people came from Germany, about a third, followed by Italy, the Netherlands, UK, France and Spain. The US accounted for 800 visitors, while Japan had 200 and Australia 100 representatives.

After the opening reception on Tuesday which featured special guest Mandio Diao, the fair opened its doors on Wednesday morning. From 10 a.m. the walkways were crowded as were stands. The weather and mood were also good and optimistic. Exhibitors and visitors were content with the traffic and also impressed with the new location.

"We are very content. Tempelhof is a fantastic location and the traffic is very good. We have a lot of international visitors from Scandinavia, Holland and the UK," said Michael Strehler, Levi's Europe.

All in all, 567 brands are exhibiting at Tempelhof compared to Barcelona’s 800. Bread & butter chief Karl-Heinz Müller said: “It’s part of our concept. We have less space here in Berlin, about 71,000 sq. meters compared to 95,000 sq. meters in Barcelona. In addition, the market in Spain has a different structure. In Spain we had lots of small brands with small stands; in Germany the situation is totally different. As it is the strongest market in Europe, most brands will have bigger stands.”

Indeed, stands of global players based particularly in the denim hall and those in the Luna Park such as G-Star, Levi's, Replay, Pepe Jeans are up to 800 sq. meters in size. Additionally, many brands such as Wrangler, Ed Hardy and William Rast, which welcomed co-founder Justin Timberland at the stand yesterday, are providing shows and entertainment.

Thanks to the new structure, the show also provides more clarity at the nine areas of denim base, fashion now, style society, street fashion, sport&street, Luna Park, Urban Superior Men, Urban Superior Women, L.O.C.K. and The Source.

Concerning the fate of The Source, Müller has announced a deadline of tomorrow to potential exhibitors to consider whether they would like to keep this section or not. Müller has suggested a special event within Bread & butter that will host around 35 companies. His condition: creativity. "We don't want any agents showing fabric samples but the best companies showing their innovations and creativity," Müller said.

Overall, however, Bread & butter's homecoming has been a success. Müller is content and looking forward to the 2010 winter show, from Jan. 20-22. So far it's not clear whether Premium and Mercedes Benz Fashion Week will run again at the same time. "I hope that Premium and IMG will also agree with the date. If we want to establish Berlin as a fashion metropolis, we need an early date to give information and orientation," he said.

Currently Bread & butter is exploring how to make Tempelhof, with its hangar winterproof. The concept should be presented within the next several weeks.

Müller has a 10-year contract for using the location at Tempelhof.

—Melanie Gropler