The US trade show season drew to a close in New York on Thursday, with The Coterie reflecting the now-standard enormity and repetitive nature of trade shows stateside and a growing attendance by European brands.

Due to renovations on the Piers on West Side Highway, the longstanding location of the women’s contemporary, bridge and young designers show, ENK International Trade Events, the principal organizer of The Coterie, split its exhibitors between two Piers and the Jacob Javits Convention Center, with most directional contemporary brands situated in the latter. The Mezzanine, Fresh, Sole Commerce and Clear, four growing subdivisions of the show, were also in the Javits Center this season.

Standouts in Mezzanine included Antonio Berardi, Anzevino + Florence, Bread Denim, Evisu and Rodebjer.

With its emphasis on young designers and directional concepts, Fresh hosted lines by Ca$hmere, Canterbury of New Zealand, Corpus, Drykorn, Flux Nouveau, FRx Future Prescription, House of Spy, Kenzie, Mads Norgaard-Copenhagen, Martin Martin, Tevrow + Chase and many others.

American denim brands, however, ruled much of the main floor, with brands such as 7 for All Mankind, 1921, Antik Denim, Rich & Skinny, Diesel, J Brand, True Religion holding their own, despite writing significant orders one week prior in Las Vegas. Among the most directional was 1921 with its clean, trouser fits and Lee Authentics’ Gold Label with its super-low crotches for guys and super wide-leg dungarees for girls.