The Fashion Coterie ( started on a strong note, presumably due to buyers skipping Accessorie Circuit and Intermezzo in favor of attending the more comprehensive, three-day Fashion Coterie.

Pier 94, the hub of the shows, hosted a variety of denim and better contemporary lines, including Helmut Lang, Theory, Diane von Furstenberg, Rag & Bone, Hugo and Generra. Notable collections included dvb by Victoria Beckham, which offered fresh silhouettes for cropped blazers and bleached out denim; Ever for its stable of breezy basics with subtle sporty detailing in earth/clay tones; and Fred Perry for its athletic-heather gray paneled basics amongst its teeny, red separates. 1921 showed skirt overalls to capris with a faded, vintage finish and bleach effects elsewhere. Minishorts in punky, electro colors and black with foil application by Bread Denim were some of the most daring at the Pier. 575 Denim offered a rusty, sepia palette for the most part. Meanwhile, dark, clean bootcut styles could be seen at Level 99, Rich & Skinny, Brown Label and Agave Nectar. Collections by Radcliffe Denim, Lewis Cho, Nfy and Paige Premium Denim had also evolved with more sophistication.

Meanwhile, at Piers 90 and 92, crowds were quieter but brands were no less impressive, with the likes of Cynthia Rowley, Anna Sui, Custo Barcelona, Erotokritos, Miss Sixty and Betsey Johnson showing typically feminine and colorful collections, with an emphasis on bright spring tones of blues, yellow, pink and green, and appropriately light jersey, chiffon and frothy tulles. A cleaner cut and muted palette – grey, beige, off-white – was presented by women’s lines Jill Stuart, Inhabit and Pure DKNY. In denim, the trend for leaner legs in men’s, wider in women’s and higher waists and cleaner finishes all round were prominent in brands like Stephenson, Siwy, J Brand, Earnest Sewn and Fabrizio Giani Jeans.

Offsite, Altamont showcased new rocker tees by artists, Neckface, French and J. Lorenzi, military-inspired sweatshirts including a French terry cardigan with flap pockets and epaulets, and deep purple selvedge denim. This season's theme was based around a volcanic eruption in Hawaii. At Etnies, pastel stripe knits to lightning bold printed sweatshirts and blacklight Sheckler, Jason Dill and Arto tess were a welcome addition to the brand's continuing partnership with artists such as Chester Bennington and Arto Saari.