Premium Berlin, held on January, 15-17, was busy from the first day despite a strike of the Frankfurt airport.
The show had recently announced a redistribution of brands according to new hall categories for this edition. However, visitors didn’t perceive any sensible or radical change in layout or concept.
Despite this, asking insiders and exhibitors, the general feeling is that Premium continues to offer a valid opportunity for showing, learning about trends, making decisions and–in some cases–placing orders.
“I exhibit both Pitti Uomo and Premium,” commented Simone Ponziani, owner and CEO, Artcrafts, an Italian company that owns and distributes brands such as Canadian Classics among others, and distributes other international brands to Italy. “I think that both shows offer a good opportunity for meeting different clients. In particular, here at Premium one can work with many Northern European customers.”
“It is important for us being here as we can get in touch with the whole German and DACH clients,” commented Raffaello Severini, sales manager Manuel Ritz, part of Manifattura Paoloni SpA.
“We visit Berlin shows every six months and spend the whole three days in the city,” said Luigi Ciaramella, a buyer for the Golden Bros jeanswear and streetwear stores from the Naples area. “Here we can find a well-varied offer and more affordable products for our clientele. Among others, we can make great research at Seek. Also Premium is interesting for us, although its offer is generally higher-priced.”
Color gives the mood
The main trends seen at the show included brightly colored boxy down jackets, parkas and explorer-inspired pieces. Alongside it there was an evident return to the ’80s and a hint of the ’70s.
Among the strongest hues were Holubar’s bright orange and light blue highly protective down jackets, including a replica of a jacket worn by Robert De Niro in the film “The Deer Hunter,” a cult piece for the brand and a constant bestseller.
Opting for a ’70s comeback were Colmar Original’s skiing fitted down jackets mixing black-and-white striped collars and cuffs, red and purple, and green-turquoise clashing hue combinations. Clean lines were presented at Wolfskin Techlab, Jack Wolfskin’s premium line.
Here are our choices of some of the strongest pieces seen at the show:
Best streetwear – Marcatory
This Korean streetwear and sportswear brand presented a series of jackets reinventing the concept of workwear by offering them in bright orange–the hue of the season–or innovative materials as semitransparent windbreakers with orange details.
Best outerwear – Bomboogie and Freedomday
Streamlined design jackets focused on clean and cool military green nylon jackets and custard yellow styles completed by graffiti-effect handwritten lettering.
The Italian outer jacket brand Freedomday continues offering brightly colored parkas completed by inner linings with colorful photograph graphics. Starting for f/w 2019-20 it will introduce a more protective and technical Black Label series of jackets in light-reflecting, black and gray variants.
Best “classic with a twist” – Damur and Allegri
The German brand Damur has reinterpreted some classic items like, for instance, the Winter coat by mixing denim with red cord, or different blue hue denims in the same piece and completed them with bold printed graphic elements such as a white evident hashtag.
Allegri’s raincoats reinterpreted with innovative high-tech fibers were completed with contrasting color thermosealings around the neck and hood.
Best jeanswear – Liu Jo
The Italian jeanswear brand focused on a selection of new ecofriendly jeans–Liu Jo Better Denim–employing Candiani Denim fabrics using Kitotex by Canepa SpA eco-friendly and bio-based substances. The selection was offered in different fits, hues and models in about 25 different variants. Also part of this season’s collection were cool and feminine five-pockets with thin crystal-studded bands and other similar applications.
Best knitwear –Evyïnit and Dale of Norway
Chunky or softly voluminous handmade knitwear pieces were also a must as seen at Evyïnit. Dale of Norway, participating the show for the first edition since being acquired by the Rossignol Group, offered a series of thin highly elaborate jacquard or chunky top quality wool tops and sweaters.
Best slogans and decorations – Liv Bergen and Starstyling
A “100% Fake” writing on Liv Bergen’s fake fur coat or fun applications such as colorful dots, silhouettes and famous misspelled designer names as seen at Starstyling can bring fun and optimism.
Best footwear: Louis Trenker
The brand’s colorful chunky boots were reinterpreted with liveliness perfect for both city life and mountain activities.
SHOW & ORDER
A similar mood pervaded Show & Order, the event running parallel to Premium and held at the Kühlhaus.
Some of our favorites there were:
Best jeanswear – Gang
This German jeans brand has further enlarged it selection of eco-friendly jeans by including a new series of items made with 100% recycled denim cotton. It has also increased the selection of pieces made with denim that is treated employing less water and chemicals and uses nickel-free accessories and cork labels. And it has increased its offer of 100% Made in Italy jeans that were entirely manufactured and finished in Italy.
Best footwear – Old Gringo
As the ’80s are back traditional cowboy boots are a must. This Mexican authentic cowboy boots brand offered hand-embroidered and hand-studded unique boots that look like masterpieces.
Best slogans and accessories – Another Brand and Numero9 Project
Cool knitwear tops, sweatshirts and T-shirts are part of the offer of Another Brand, a womens’ knitwear specialist, whose easy-chic pieces often play with words.
Numero9 Project is a collection of essential geometric backpacks made with coated materials only and decorated by micro belts.