We live in uncertain political times, with the threat of the ISIS fighters and their radical Islam interpretation and the ongoing civil war in Syria being the two most worrying international armed conflicts. Somehow, this instability has disrupted fashion’s creative class, who couldn’t look the other way this fall/winter season. The terrorist attacks that shook up Paris last November didn’t go unnoticed by a bunch of designers and fashion houses in London, Milan and Paris, who integrated the classic military fashion features in their men collections to some extent.

Moncler took camouflage to the extreme during its show at Milan Men’s Fashion Week, as the whole collection featured a grey, blue, red and white version of the iconic military pattern covering classical tailored pieces with printed and laminated details, beaded embroidery, sequins and bouclé-effect embroidery. Études opted for the classical camouflage hues in outerwear pieces and loose overalls with suspended pockets on chest, arms and legs, paired with black combat boots. Interesting were also the green pleated pants adorned with sleek same-toned straps. At London Collections Men, Maharishi put a focus not only on the trademark army hues, but also on shoulder pads, padded outerwear and military insignias patched on tops and silver medallions. Finally, Jil Sander introduced the theme in the subtlest way through colors, glossy cargo-inspired cuff pants and boxy ribbed knitwear with fur shoulder pads.

Fashion as an artistic discipline should both deliver beauty and glamour through idyllic worlds –Gucci might be a good example- but also a fair reflection of today’s society and the real concerns. Therefore the appearance of military-inspired collections on the runway reaffirms this commitment with deep satisfaction.

Maharishi fall/winter 2016-17
Maharishi fall/winter 2016-17

Moncler fall/winter 2016-17
Moncler fall/winter 2016-17

Jil Sander fall/winter 2016-17
Jil Sander fall/winter 2016-17

Études fall/winter 2016-17
Études fall/winter 2016-17