The tour of men’s fashion week just started again with London as the first pushpin to nail in the map, as usual. Despite the uncertainty that imbues the future of men-only fashion events –fruit of luxury powerhouses like Burberry and Gucci presenting their collections for both genres at a single show– London Collections Men wrapped up and set the tone for seasonal themes. It also demonstrated that there are still many unexplored territories and dressing taboos to break in menswear. But luckily, both established names and young voices in fashion are painstakingly crafting an array of looks catering for all kinds of men. Here’s an A-Z Guide with the basic concepts to take away from LCM.
Western designers are looking for new impulses outside of the usual fashion grounds and the Far East is certainly their fixation. Think of kimono jackets with eclectic prints like the ones shown by Astrid Andersen, which are combined with a fringed cummerbund and a tracksuit pant. The silhouette revolves around the classic karate warrior uniform, but in fabrics and finishes never applied before.
Liam Hodges messed around with shape, proportion and collaging, demonstrating how longstanding staples like a workwear shirt could be given a brand new life by just using patchwork and asymmetry. Tops with elongated- or billowy sleeves a là Vetements gave fluidity and a certain delicacy to the rough-inherent workwear look.
Refreshing, bold prints in summery tonalities like bright blue, red and yellow; tropical motifs on matching sets. The sea, the beach and its laid-back dressing codes pervades next season. Topman Design celebrated the style of British seaside towns, delivering tracksuits, American Hawaiian shirts and cropped puffa jackets that could have belonged to Pamela Anderson in Baywatch. Several pieces were embellished with palm-tree and dolphin embroideries.
Beige & Co.
Being streetwear’s sweetheart for a while now, the color beige as well as khaki shades are still very present in collections by Wan Hung, Astrid Andersen, Liam Hodges and Matthew Miller.
Since Gucci’s creative mind Alessandro Michele showcased his full-lace shirts for men on the runway last year, the fabric has been on the rise. Nevertheless, we haven’t seen it in the sportswear field yet –until now. Fearless is the best adjective to describe Astrid Andersen’s tracksuits with lace inserts in knees, sleeves and belly. One more proof that the fabric is here to stay.
Why are the most comfortable things in life usually meant to be worn at home? Next spring, your classic pajama becomes an option for the sidewalks, too. Turnbull & Aser, Berthold and Qasimi bet on the sleepwear trend.
Coming back to the runways in fall/winter 16, pink remains key in men’s fashion. Looks in light shades stroll down the runway both in a head-to-toe manner and also as single items that enliven the outfit –this option probably being the most bearable for those gents who still believe pink is girly. Charli Cohen offers cotton-candy joggers, the quintessential streetwear staple of the last seasons. Tiger of Sweden introduces the pink shade to the evening wardrobe in form of a silky vest over a classical black suit. Xander Zhou even takes the genderless look to the next level with a billowy hoodie dress.
Yet another girly thing that sneaks into the men’s closet. Sequins become one of the key embellishments in knitwear at Sibling and I bet we’ll see more of those in other men’s collections.