It’s time for a change in Milan. Be it for the optimism sensed around, for the internationality of visitors invading Milan Expo 2015 or for most different cultural-informative events happening much more vitality right now. Also the recently closed Milan Menswear shows presented the latest s/s 2016 collection emphasizing on the new attitudes pervading the men’s universe.

The age of detournement

As a point of no return genderless fashion is clearly influencing quite a lot of shows and collections. Alessandro Michele, new Gucci head of design, while referring to the 1950s philosophy current of “detournement” aims at breaking old conventions and securities for creating new balances and new creative mixes. So Gucci’s new collection focuses on lace tops, flower embroidered men suits and highly decorated tracksuits and leather jackets. 
Etro also opts for tailor-made and masculine items though innovated with fluid and soft fabrics and feminine flowery or abstract prints. MSGM creates crochet colorful tops for men. Pointed collars and unexpected color mixes, most often worn with sneaker-like sandals characterize Marni’s first Milanese men’s fashion show. Pervading most of these collections is a general 1970s revamping made up of bell bottom trousers, belted trenches and drapy silk shirts as seen at Costume National.

A Chinese invasion

Another key aspect emerging from these shows is the presence of China – both in terms of inspiration as well as in terms of brands willing to conquer international visibility. Chinese traditional embroideries, printed motives and vibrant color silks characterize the newest Dolce&Gabbana collection. They mix their favorite Sicilian decors and imagery of luxurious Chinese elements for new dramatic effects. In addition, Chinese upmarket brands showed their latest collections.
Septwolves (also see our report here) opts for total white collections carrying fancy animal or geometric pattern, embroideries or prints. A mix of traditional silhouettes and decorations with modern and western inspiration is also presented by Zeng Fengfei and Jiwenbo.

Sporty-chic, a must-have

Sportiness remains a must have for every modern men’s wardrobe. As also seen during Pitti Uomo, many sophisticated outer jackets are completed with ultra-functional nets, color contrast edgings and detailing (Z Zegna, Pal Zileri, Duvetica and Calvin Klein). Moncler plays with multistrata and multistriped functional chic mixes. This time Thom Browne concentrated on American college canoeing athletes wearing blue-white, red-blue-white, white-greys and pastel mixes.
Other designers reinvented classic sporty pieces such as the tracksuit (as Gucci did by adding embroideries) or reinventing bombers and blousons – as shown by the upcoming Japanese designer Facetasm. Many items are packable, reversible and made with high-tech fibers and materials as, for instance, Lanificio Colombo’s new polar fleece tops made with cashmere fiber, or with shirt-like motives, though highly functional, water- and windproof. The modern urban Diesel Black Gold opts for complete total look in silver, white or ciré black total looks made up of long sleeve studded blousons, parkas and skinny highly wrinkled five-pockets.

Denim, blues, greens and pastels gets back

Denim is another protagonist many designers want back in their collections. Apart from aged denim blazers, a must-have in many collections this season might be many designers that like to play with denim. Gucci’s catwalk show offered a cool tie-dye denim belted trench and shorts.
Calvin Klein opts for light blue denim jackets, turned-up five-pockets and jersey-like light blue sweatshirts. Duvetica reproduces a flowery jacquard denim drill print on some of its jackets. Antonio Marras mixes the blues of his Sardinia Sea on white and blue blazers with military green outfits and cut-outs.
Some hues that won’t be missing in any cool men’s wardrobe include pastels like dusty pinks, greys, yellows, oranges and purples but also and especially all kinds of blues and greens and all in-between shades like emeralds and water greens as shown, for instance, by the Fratelli Rossetti shoe collection.