On the political stage, long-standing transnational unions and identities are cracking up. The bitter and unexpected shock of the Brexit becoming real in the early hours of Friday morning knocked many people off their feet. Still, during Paris Men’s Week, the word cosmopolitan understates the myriad of languages that you can hear across the grounds. It’s like a UN conference without politicians but with brand representatives from every corner of the globe. And unlike in the EU these days, they all seem to be cool with each other.
The basement and third floor of the Maison de la Mutualité was the playground for Capsule, where well-established names such as Daily Paper or Criminal Damage were side by side with smaller labels from the upper-casualwear and streetwear segments. It had a high stake of American brands with great potential. Drifter came all the way down from Los Angeles to introduce a range of wearable utility-driven garments and a pulsing activewear feel. From the same city, The Squad delivered a crisp collection with a keen focus on fabrications paired to witty designs like a French terry sweatshirt with the inner layer turned inside out or a reversible tank top with handwritten markings on both sides.
Man delighted visitors with more brands on a storehouse-like space at Rue Yves Toudic. The charming venue had though many hidden corners with brands that were not easy to spot and thus made it hard for certain visitors to check them out. Besides the likes of Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Frisur and Fred Perry Laurel Wreath, several smaller labels on show were presenting collections formed by everyday essentials whose key differentiations were fabrics and constructions. Nevertheless, as those qualities become harder to distinguish by the eye alone, you could have a certain feeling of lack of real originality and innovation in the market –this actually applies to almost every single trade show out there. This overdose of ‘basics’ was toned down by striking prints like the ones from The Hill-Side shirting line.
Palais de la Bourse, one of the two venues across which Tranoï split up its portfolio concentrated the highest rate of interesting menswear labels. A crackerjack collection was showcased by Ly Adams, a Parisian contemporary men’s brand that integrated performance wear elements into a rather sartorial collection. Among the newcomers, footwear labels Twenty Two Zero One and Marco Lagana demonstrated that originality drives this business. Marco Lagana introduced made-in-Italy leather shoes and sneakers featuring patches, bar codes and price tags taken from Swedish furniture juggernaut Ikea, a pop art-like approach that stretches out across the whole collection. Cité de la Mode et du Design, the other show location, hosted women pre-collections as well as men’s labels, but most of them were firmly anchored in the classic premium segment. Unavoidable were the fresh and colorful knit proposals from International Woolmark Prize nominee Luca Larenza.
Re-made denim pieces by mixing up different fabrics.
The Yeezy-legacy in form of textured sweatpants, short-sleeved sweaters and t-shirts with dropped shoulders and/or holes, in pastels or earth tones.
Much-hyped collaborations such as the one between Stone Island and Supreme boosted the market with more and more designers and young labels betting on outerwear functional pieces.
Kimono jackets and all kinds of Asian-inspired prints.
Here to stay
Pastel colors, jog pants and all kinds of stripes.
What comes next?
A new continent is set to take over Asia as source of inspiration for seasons to come: Africa. Expect to see more and more collections featuring the bold iconic prints of the continent and traditional garments like robes.
For more information on trade shows check out DFV Group’s expocheck.com.