From September 2-5, Porte de Versailles was home again to trade shows Who’s Next and Premiere Classe, which delighted visitors with a vast selection of brands and inspiration. A highlight that caught everyone’s eyes was the trends forum located outside of the show, which presented new fashion combos born out of ethnical clothing and street culture, together with the new menswear delicacy in clothing, where looks were clearly inspired by Alessandro Michele’s collections for Gucci.
All consulted exhibitors reported a heavy foot traffic throughout the show, especially Sunday and Monday, when the rainy weather emptied the beach-like area outside of the trade shows and invited visitors to remain indoors. Various independent labels told us about the increasing pressure on low prices that buyers undergo, which makes it difficult for them to market their product. “Who’s Next is a good show especially if you offer an economic product. Our collection prices are probably more elevated than what the average buyer at the show is willing to shell out,” told us Elisabet Carlota, one of the designers behind Barcelona-based brand Carlotaoms.
After walking up and down the show corridors, we made a selection of exhibiting labels that you should keep an eye on for seasons to come.
Established in early 2015, Fade Out was kicked off in Berlin by Andrea Bonfini and Nicola Gomiero. Throughout the thrift stores and flea markets of the German capital, both Italian designers seek well-aged vintage denims to deconstruct and then reassemble them in new astonishing patchwork designs that are unisex and mostly oversize fits. All garments are bespoke and made to order –it takes twelve hours to handcraft a jacket and the work of two people. Besides the permanent collection, Fade Out produces limited-edition ranges like Lucky Pink, a set of denim bomber jacket and shorts in pink shades. Wholesale prices start at 65€ for tops and go up to 180€ for jackets and overalls.
In 2013, entrepreneurs Mehdi, Mustapha and Alice wanted to create a label where ethical manufacturing goes hand in hand with competitive pricing. That was the start of Mykilimshop.
Whether handcrafted in granny leather or suede, all bags and backpacks by this French label feature beautiful Berber patterns –the same hand-woven technique used traditionally for manufacturing carpets in countries like Morocco, where local artisans manufacture the brand products. Retail prices for bags range from 189€ to 219€.
For its second time at Who’s Next, Knitss showcased a beautiful collection encompassing colorblock dresses, tops, long sweaters and pants all made of the finest knits. Designed in Paris, all pieces are manufactured at the brand’s own factory in Istanbul using Italian yarns.
Kiev-based designer Jean Gritsfeldt is a constant participant at Ukrainian Fashion Week since showcasing his first collection at the event in 2012. His eponymous brand manufactures playful and bold apparel that explore the boundaries between art and fashion. Gritsfeldt creations for men and women are characterized by material mixes, innovative silhouettes and embroideries.
After studying fashion design in Logroño (Spain) for two years, David Catalán moved to Oporto thanks to an Erasmus scholarship and has been living in the Portuguese city ever since. His clothes are inspired by modern culture, with sporty silhouettes and layering looks dominating his collections. For spring/summer’17, he introduced items such as double-layered denim tops, denim bombers with zipped detachable sleeves and heavily-frayed shirts.
Good design doesn’t necessarily have to be at odds with technology features that make our day to day easier. The ultimate proof is Mighty Purse, the new range of purses, clutches and tote bags, introduced by Australian brand HButler at Who’s Next. Each model features a thin lithium-ion battery inside that allows the wearer to charge her phone up to three times while on the go. It works with all micro USB smartphones and iPhone. Wholesale prices revolve around the 40€, with RRP starting at 90€.