Sporty, simple or vintage

The Fashion Week in Paris showed an innovative mix of ideas from the past and inspirations of a sporty lifestyle

On Wednesday evening the Parisian Fashion Week closed its doors after nine fully packed days of shows, showrooms and presentations. The old proverb, you don’t have to proclaim trends before the end of Paris Fashion Week, was once again affirmed. The designers, coming from all over the world to show in the French capital, presented some really new ideas for the ready-to-wear section in summer of 2015. Here are five key trends:

Balenciaga
Balenciaga
Mesh: „Innovations in fabrics come mostly from sports“, explains Pascaline Wilhelm, fashion director of the most important fabric-fair Première Vision. These „new textile“ were adopted with pleasure by the designers, who transferred the sporty character into their high-class-collections. Mesh fabrics, as we know from baseball, ice hockey or even fishing, were introduced in fashion in form of structured tops, skirts, dresses, as well as pants. Sometimes these meshes are underlaid, sometimes used in a pure, quite sexy way. Seen at Balmain, Kaviar Gauche, Kenzo, Véronique Leroy and especially at Balenciaga.

Sporty-chic: But not only sporty materials, also real functional sport-cuts and -outfits were introduced to every day fashion. Raf Simons found inspirations in skating and fencing for his Dior collection. Cycling shorts appeared on the catwalk of Viktor&Rolf, Manish Arora and boxer shorts at Maxime Simoëns and Masha Ma. Cut-outs at waists and haunches, which we know from swimsuits, walked over the catwalk at Mugler and Paco Rabanne. Dresses that seem to have been directly taken from the tennis court were seen at Akris and JC de Castelbajac. Baseball-caps and tank tops appeared in many collections during Paris Fashion Week. Flats continue their triumphal procession and go perfectly well with this trend.

Seventies: Every season there is one trend from the past. For summer 2015 the powerful hippie-chic of the seventies returns to the catwalk. Mini-skirts and -dresses with cropped jackets, flared sleeves and small scarfs, bonded near the neck, as well as some long dresses in caftan- and tunic-shapes flowed over the runway. The trend was mostly adopted by Chloé, Givenchy, Giambattista Valli, Paul & Joe, Chanel or Elie Saab. But the purest transfer of the seventies could be seen at Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane and Louis Vuitton by Nicolas Ghesquière, where iconic models such as Twiggy, Jean Shrimpton and also Brigitte Bardot seemed to come back on scene.

Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent
Luxury denim: Denim was a strong theme on the catwalks in New York, London and Milan. Paris is spinning this trend further and presents it in a very luxurious version.  Very often the denim is integrated in a very pure way: blue denim with a careful and smooth washing. The material was transferred in stiff and well cut pants and tops like those at Celine, Yang Li or Sonja Rykiel. Stella McCartney, Véronique Branquinho, Kenzo or Chloé voted for couture-cut dresses and skirts out of the material. And even Hermès showed a tunic-like, wrapped dress in a raw, un-dyed bright denim.

New Simplicity: In contrast to many collections shown in Milan with sumptuous decoration or patterns, a lot of Parisian designers decided to keep the design simple and clean. Long dresses, overalls, suits and also combinations of pants or skirts with tops all in one color and simplified cuts walked over the runway of Stella McCartney, Rochas, Nina Ricci, Christophe Lemaire, Véronique Leroy and especially at Celine. To strengthen this trend, the designers utilized non-colors like white, black and beige and simple, but luxury materials as cotton, silk, linen and summer-wool. The only flashy color accepted for this trend was a blood red, sometimes in an orange nuance.