Milan Fashion Week held from 17 to 22 September 2014 presented new trends for s/s 2015 women’s pret-à-porter.

Back to the 70s
A major theme characterizing shows was a general return to ‘70s looks, silhouettes and materials. Flares, bell bottoms and wide cuff-less sleeves, uniform-inspired pieces, A-shaped dresses, miniskirts and ankle-length soft and wide skirts were much around even if reinterpreted with a modern and sophisticated spirit. Etro redesigned soft multistrata chic pieces with Navajo and ethnic inspiration. Missoni reinvented the silk shirt with soft degradé hues and Costume National remixed asymmetric ‘70s pieces in black, purple and brown.
Look from the Gucci show
Look from the Gucci show

In love with denim
If the ‘70s are back also denim is to stay, though much reinvented with new silhouettes, juxtaposing washed and unwashed denims (as masterly done by Gucci in body hugging short dresses), reinvented for modern uniforms with important golden buttons (Gucci again). Scervino added romantic laser cut denim flowers to its outfits, Bottega Veneta made elegant raw denim evening dresses, Emporio Armani showed turned up dark denim trousers for daytime. Fendi revived denim going back to the ‘80s with carrot trousers and lightweight multistrata denim shirts. Etro added a patchwork of blue ethnic jacquard material to short western style jackets. Alberta Ferretti also rediscovered denim in light blue variants, carrying lasercut flowers and doubled it with see-through voile. Lucid dark denim was shown by Massimo Rebecchi and Gabriele Colangelo – the first one used it for daily use clean items, the second one for more conceptual pieces.

Sporty is cool
A sporty attitude pervaded many collections such as, for instance, the one designed by Stella Jean who mixed sporty college style t-shirts with ethnic printed skirts and trousers. Iceberg mixed bold colors, neoprene and sporty silhouettes. Kristina Ti mixed colors and neoprene. I’m Isola Marras and Fausto Puglisi focused on optical black and white mixes and macrostripes. Antonio Marras and Roberto Cavalli opted for bold optic stripes in vivid orange and bright blue. Calvin Klein Jeans mixed sporty mesh tops and short bombers with denim pieces in grey, dark and light blue variants.
Look from Stella Jean
Look from Stella Jean

Pink and red - optimism is in sight
Two colors were much loved by various designers. Pink and red. Bright pink was the absolute protagonist at Moschino who – after playing with McDonalds’s motives last season – has focused on Barbie recreating the same glam look as worn by the blond pink mouthed and lovely dressed dolls. Other designers played more softly with pink. Versace offered cleaner looks than usual, focusing on more essential outfits where pink also played its part. Dolce&Gabbana opted for red and gold décor on their outfits such as rich embroideries and heart-shaped ex-votos, and red, white and black theatrical outfits. Brian Atwood’s sandals played with pop images and prints such as glossy red lip prints. Plus other hints of colors such as electric blue at Emporio Armani. Acid green, yellow, purple and pink – again – were hot at Cividini often mixed with gold and silver lightweight knitwear items.
Runway look at Marni
Runway look at Marni

Marni and Krizia celebrate
Most interesting was Marni’s show that, while celebrating its 20th anniversary, presented a crescendo of asymmetric and conceptual pieces and outfits first in white and neutral hues and then always more colorful, elaborated and decorated also including leather and sateen bomber jackets. Also celebrating this anniversary was the special Marni Flower Market event presenting poetic flower compositions and Marni’s own design pieces in an open air garden at Rotonda di Besana. Also Krizia, recently acquired by China’s Zhu Chongyun, presented a special restrospective of her works (which showed how inspiring she has been through the years for many other designers, including, for instance, Miyake’s iconic pleated fashion).

Prada loves constrasts
Prada focused on reinvented trenches with visible contrast stitching. Elegant dresses are made with Fortuny-style brocades and jacquard rich fabric mixes carrying unfinished and fringed hems. The most elaborate meets the roughest – that is what fashionistas love!