Milan's men pack their suitcases for cool s/s 2015 holidays

Milanese fashion shows presenting novelties for s/s 2015 have just closed after a super-fast - and slim - four-day edition held from 21 to 24 June.

Continuing to focus on “normcore” fashion, a term that was created six months ago to underline how less gimmick and more substance are essential for men’s fashion. Therefore no big events, nor super iconic guests characterized the short but intense tour de force. Great products and the desire for the modern men to enjoy every day as if it was a holiday, by playing some favorite sports (Dirk Bikkembers, Moncler and Antonio Marras) enjoying great food (Etro) or some great art pieces (Frankie Morello, Versace) pervaded the new s/s season. Also a return to the ‘60s or ‘70s inspiration (Gucci and Costume National) and finding optimism thanks to energetic hues or some relaxed fits can make a difference. It is not by chance that many shows presented men mostly wearing luxury slippers or shower sandals implying the idea that every day can be a holiday.

Prada SS'15
Prada SS'15
Denim gets back
After seasons when no denim was around, many designers are getting back to it rediscovering how cool and versatile it can be. Prada opted for raw denim items and looks carrying visible contrast stitchings, Frankie Morello chose clean dark blue ones with orange contrasting stitchings and Ports1961 mixed boxy sophisticated looks with dark untreated denims and oversized redesigned western style jackets. Others opted for aged denim such as Gucci who mixed them with urban coats; Westwood created macro-patchworks of stone washed denim pieces. Fendi offered marble-like stone washed denims.

Sporty looks – a must-have
Moncler SS'15
Moncler SS'15
Recreating sport matches as Moncler’s boxing ring and outfits made up of silk hooded robes with multi-check and striped pieces, Marras presented his collection on a basketball ground, Bikkembergs created rubberized and multi-functional outfits perfect for triathlon contests. Richmond reinvented sporty bomber jackets with Bermuda shorts and upside down “7” applications. Diesel Black Gold opted for tracksuits and motobike rugged jackets hand-decorated with graffiti elements plus offered a unique selection of color denims such as beige with a grey hue, green meets sand tones, plus different grey and black shades of denims. Bottega Veneta has created whole deconstructed total looks made up of washed and soft hand jerseys.

Color means energy
Total looks or playing with accents or creating complete colorful outfits is a practice designers never tire of. Dolce&Gabbana choose red for whole total looks or Spanish traditional decor elements such as bullfighter and roses. Other designers opted for neutral looks added with colorful accents such as Calvin Klein. Ermanno Scervino completed his parkas, coats and jackets with contrasting bright inner linings.

Gucci SS'15
Gucci SS'15
Stripes, checks and points
Optical effects won’t be missing. Emporio Armani has opted for most different mixes of stripes – from super thin to bold ones; Costume National launched completely striped suits while Gucci recreated vertical black and white striped trousers à-la-Mick Jagger, just showing on the same day when the Rolling Stones performed their concert in Rome. Woolrich Woollen Mills launched a historical own design low-crotch comfy trousers with a coulisse at the waist in both plain color and in stripes.
Checks mixed with other patterns charactersed MSGM. Micro and macro dots “punctuated” collections: red on black (or vice versa) on some of Dolce&Gabbana's items and white on black on some of Ermanno Scervino coats, and shirts.

Etro SS'15
Etro SS'15
Prints – never without
As already seen at Pitti Uomo exotic plants and flowers are a must for s/s 2015 and designers loved to play with them. MSGM mixed geometries and ethnic patterns, Daks decorated items with color contrast geometries, Iceberg reinvented tie-and-dye horizontal patterns and Etro played with funky food prints of tortellini, pasta, shrimps and muscles on silk shirts, nylon parkas and tracksuits. While referring to the Italian tradition of great and genuine food (“We are what we eat” as juxtaposed to genetically modified food) he also blinked his eye to a major theme that will characterize Milan Expo in 2015. Art also plays its part at Versace that decorated some jackets with Matisse-like patterns, while Frankie Morello decorated his collections with patterns of sculptures and art masterpiece reminding that making art can be antidote to apathy. Therefore many of their tops carried the motto “Make art not war”.