Denim By Premiere Vision has closed its doors after two busy days (19-20 November 2014). The event, held for the second time in Barcelona, hosted a positive atmosphere and corridors crowded by insiders and international visitors from Europe, Asia, US, Canada, Australia and New Zealand. Some exhibitors complained that among visitors there were not many insiders from the premium denim market, others about the fact that the show is mainly focused on a brand-based market and less on vertical chains. Despite some complains most comments from exhibitors and visitors were positive and most companies showed their interest in being part of the show also for future editions.

Sport is in the air
Among general trends characterizing the offer for s/s 2016, there is a strong focus on sports not simply for sport-inspired denim garments, but higher stretch performance, high-breathability, moisture management and a smart image. Each denim specialist focused on some specific sports activities – Orta presented some yoga performers and some skaters while wearing their garments, Tavex presented BMX champion Alberto Moya’s performance while wearing their highly functional Fitness Denim garments. Prosperity Denim launched its J-Fit denim, also meant for yoga pants and highly functional garments. Tejidos Royo launched a new collaboration with Armalith, high-performance abrasion resistant denim for motoriders, urban bikers and skaters. Orta premiered its collaboration with Spidi and disclosed the Spididenim fashion-meets-function denim collection. Isko presented Blue Jym, a special capsule collection of functional denims. Among them was a series of reversible denims made to be worn on both sides and show a more denim aspect on one side and a more functional and sportive on the other.

More beauty and function
The show brought a series of new innovation to the attention of visitors, which was aimed at making wearers look and feel better. In addition to the launch of Invista’s new Lycra Beauty concept (see our previous coverage here), Rhodia, part of Solvay chemical global group, launched Emana, a new fiber made of bioactive-mineral-based polyamide yarn that absorbs human body warmth and returns it as far infrared rays. This way microcirculation is activated and cellulite appearance can be reduced after longer periods of wearing garments which contain this fiber.

Prosperity Denim has launched a similar new denim, F2, made with a fiber called Celliant. The 13 minerals contained in Celliant adsorb heat emitted by human body and covert into infrared light, which increases circulation, oxygen and blood flow, to deliver better rest and recovery.

Japanese chemical group Toray presented Miracle Air, a special stretch denim that employs hollow stretch fibers that are of lighter weight than normal elastane. Also new is a supersoft touch denim made with hollow stretch fibers mixed with thin rayon and cross section polyester fibers. Another luxury denim is made of a 100% cotton special denim that looks and feels like wool.

Calik offered a series of stretch denims aimed at male consumers - Extend Plus. They employ the stretch fiber only in the warp because men need comfortable fabrics with a masculine look, though, according to a study on their daily moves and body figures, they mostly need comfort in the vertical sense of their garments.

Cone Denim presented a series of new striped woven denims and chambray inspired by the company’s own archives. Some chambrays, for instance, look like corduroy because the small stripes on their surface have a velvety touch.

Eco-friendliness meets beauty
Lenzing presented a series of cool employs of its fibers in the denim market. Most outstanding were some new denim-look jersey leggings that employ viscose fibers such as Modal and are characterized by high-resolution prints that look like real aged denim – including trompe-l’oeil breakings, mendings and selvedges (some garments are already sold by brands such as AG Adriano Goldschmied and Rag &Bone). They also presented a series of Tencel knitwear pieces by Spanish specialist Unitin that can be irregularly aged like denim. US Denim has launched a new series of denims made with Crailar, a mix of flax fiber remains re-spun and mixed with cotton. The result are summery denims with irregular slub-like surfaces, though eco-friendly since this fiber needs little water and pesticides to be grown.

Jeanologia launched Light Scrapers, a new ageing laser technology that is also eco-friendly. It can be used on different denim basis (be them regular surface ones, slub-like, cross-hatch or slightly irregular denims) for a total of 20 different denim types. The result is the same as of a hand brushed denim, simply obtained by pushing a button.

Bossa believes in the importance of returning to offer 100% cotton. More specifically they presented a line of denim made with 100% PIMA cotton, called Bossa Jewellery. These fabrics can react better to washes and coatings. Most interesting are pearly and slight glittery surface effect coatings.