Scoop International (2-4 Aug.) came to a close on Tuesday. Held yet again at the Saatchi Gallery off the King’s Road, the three-day event brought together a diverse mix of contemporary womenswear brands showcasing apparel, footwear and accessories. New York denim label DL 1961 returned to the show after a few seasons’ absence, presenting its core offering of fits in new shades and washes, most of which were clean and 90s inspired. New French label Brockenbow’s jeans featured hand embroidery and decorative repairs that almost had an ethnic vibe to them. A contender to watch, the three season-old label has already found its way into high profile stockists such as Harvey Nichols in Hong Kong, Isetan Shinyuku in Tokyo and Le Bon Marché in Paris. Said co-founder Laetitia Bosc: “We decided to exhibit at Scoop in order to attract UK stockists, as we aren’t represented here yet.”

Jacket by Pyrus
Jacket by Pyrus
Sydney based One X One Teaspoon served up a diverse dollop of denim, ranging from its signature cut-off jean shorts in different shades to onsies and roomy jean jackets with dolman sleeves. Similar cut jackets were spotted elsewhere… Pyrus’s version had more than one buyer pulling at it at the same time–  indicating that relaxed fit denim outerwear with voluminous sleeves are gathering force. Meanwhile, the summer ’15 hit that is the 70s inspired button-though A-line denim skirt remained a staple in many collections for SS16. Danish contender Mads Norgaard has a knack for denim RTW suited for the un-girly girl. For SS16, highlights include a workwear inspired cropped jean jacket and a straight dress coat featuring short sleeves and a hidden button placket.

As for denim shades, true blue washes dominated the spectrum, though paler shades were used extensively across jeans, RTW and even accessories such as Paul & Joe Sister’s backpack and tote bags adorned with cartoon inspired appliques.  On the non-denim side, fruity hues, colourful stripes and checks, bold florals and motifs from the natural world came to the fore. J Lindeberg, which exhibited for the second season at Scoop, relied on birds for creative input. The bewinged creatures appeared in print but were also rendered in subtler ways in the shape of fluttery fringing applied to cardigans and leather jackets.

To comment on the season’s edition of Scoop, the event was on the quiet side during our visit on the second day (Monday) though the exhibitors we spoke to seemed contented, praising the inspiring gallery setting and the pleasant atmosphere. The organisers won’t get much rest until the next outing– Scoop will return in a few weeks’ time (20-22 Sept.) with its first show focused on brands aligned in direction with those participating at London Fashion Week.

Accessories from Paul & Joe Sister
Accessories from Paul & Joe Sister
Most unpredictable design feature
The row of red stars applied in homage to the American flag, appearing on a pair of DL 1961 jeans. Surprising (but sweet) since embellishment is not something one associates with DL 1961.

Blockbuster pieces that will remain wardrobe staples for SS16
Silk culottes and button-through denim skirts.

Denim piece sported on every other Scoop visitor
Dungarees in various washes and shades.