As impossible it would be sum up a prevailing trend for London Fashion Week’s spring/summer 2012 edition (Sep.16-21), an uninhibited mix of materials and a boundless approach to surface decoration was out in force. The tendency was perfectly exemplified by womenswear star on the meteoric rise, JW Anderson, who incorporated everything from synthetic swan feathers and crochet to raffia and flowing chiffon to his eclectic but focused affair. The show notes certainly rang true- one really did get a sense of American artist Robert Rauschenberg’s collage style work.
Peter Jensen s/s 2012
Peter Jensen s/s 2012

As always, Peter Jensen took his cue from one single muse and her dress sense - this season, luck fell upon the delightfully eccentric performer, Eunice Kathleen Wayman. The Danish designer’s take on “Nina’s” style involved plenty of peplums and frills that gave a frivolous spin to garments that were otherwise neat and fitted in silhouette. Materials spanned gold lurex knits, duchess satin, floral tulle, broderie anglaise and viscose gingham.

Aside from the artisan cross pollination of materials, another noticeable tendency was the use of a color palette that wouldn’t go amiss in a sweet shop. LFW favorites Richard Nicoll, Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders and Julien Macdonald all proposed an array of pastel hues for spring 2012. Pinks, yellows, blues and shades of aqua dominated the scheme, and it wasn’t unusual to find more than three colors fighting for attention within the same saccharine feast of an outfit.

Taking more of a purist stance, a new name with much potential is Palmer/Harding. Exhibiting its wares as part of the Topshop sponsored New Gen showcase, the shirt-based label is the brainchild of the two St Martins graduates, Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding. Inspired by photographer Ingar Krauss and 1930's couture detailing, each piece within the range displayed a painstaking attention to detail: folds, engineered pleats and strategic slits were among the elements bringing the clean-cut shirts to life.