3.1 Phillip Lim

You couldn’t fault Phillip Lim for making wearability one of his agendas for spring, but to fans of the quirky contemporary designer brand known for its bold color, unusual fabrics and detailing, Lim was in a different element and going some place else, as the Moorish arches at the end of the catwalk would hint. His opening outfit—an antique white “toro” button-down shirt paired with a matador-inspired vest with gold ribbon embellishment and a black folded back trouser—said it all: restraint, although there were some very good pieces as in an ecru chiffon trench coat worn, a black asymmetrical cascading peplum middy skirt, a “chambray” double-breasted silk crepe blazer, a shrunken “conquistadora” black leather jacket. At the same time, softer sculpture was a focus, from a parchment middy skirt with folds at the waist to the black silk organza dress with zippered ruffles snaking across and around the chest. It is debatable whether Lim was even comfortable working with ruffles, which had a certain tension and stiffness to them, but overall, what came through was a lighter, more grown-up approach for spring.

Tommy Hilfiger

Tommy Hilfiger’s opening women’s ensemble of a silk twill balmacaan coat in sand, a “citrine” silk crepe shirt and “jogger” trousers was a pretty sight, as were many other pieces in an overall terrific collection. Not only did he broaden his color palette—think a gorgeous orange silk tulip wrap dress—there were surprising twists to classics such as a men’s trench coat cut in slate blue cotton oxford cloth or belts that fastened off to the side. Other hits included a navy silk low-cut pullover blouse, a black silk cloque tunic and bib shirts for the girls. For guys, double-breasted cotton canvas jackets were the order of the day, but that didn’t seem to get in the way of the overall unfussy aspect of the collection.