Capsule returned to Basketball City on the Lower East Side yesterday for a two-day run and while its home was familiar several of its approximately 250 exhibitors were not: the show boasted 40 brands that were at Capsule New York for the first time. Show co-founder Edina Sultanik Silver explained, “We wanted more new brands to keep things fresh.”

Kempes shirt
Kempes shirt
The impressive newcomers included Dickies Construct, a brand new more fashion-forward spinoff of the iconic workwear brand and Fad Three, a 12-year-old line from Tokyo that collaborates with different artists each season. For fall 2015 it worked with the Danish creative studio “homework” to create eye-catching jeans, including a patchwork pair with contrasting back pockets. Also new was JMR by New York-based designer Obrian Madison who until now has been selling his unique and preciously priced pieces such as a tie-dyed leather jacket and a cowskin-front shirt with a denim back via Instragram. The new British line Kempes also made its New York debut with an assortment of jeans and other items. All include a large signature circular patch that Kempes hopes will one day be as familiar a fashion symbol as the Evisu seagull was in the ’90s.

Capsule also served as the launch pad for Champion Select, a new collaborative collection between Champion Athleticwear and three designers (Timo Weiland, Craig Green and Wood Wood) who were selected by Capsule for the project. An exclusive to Urban Outfitters, the new collection debuts there next week.

Vanishing Elephant
Vanishing Elephant
Returning Capsule brands offered a wide range of looks. Similar to JMR, Assembly New York designer Greg Armas added a fur patch to the front of a plain white sweatshirt, Burkman Bros showed a collection inspired by mountain men and wildlife (slogans included “I am a Bear” and “Half Wolf”) while workwear brand Left Field offered heavy, slubbed denim jeans and a “Tube Tee” that has no seams. Denim brand Naked & Famous also offered heavy denim for fall, including “Elephant Denim” jeans and a matching jacket, along with new categories such as jogging suits and a knit blazer with raw edges that won’t become undone because the fabric is so densely knit. But at Australian jeans brand Zee.Gee.Why fabric weights were significantly lighter because rigid denim is not popular Down Under at present, the brand explained. However, skinny drop-crotch styles in denim and other materials are.

While there was no one dominant trend at Capsule, quilted vests and outerwear were popular and there was a whiff of military in several collections (including a full-on flight suit at Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen). Pops of patchwork or contrasting fronts and backs also were seen and, with just a few exceptions, prints, which were so wildly popular in menswear a few seasons ago, seem to have been jettisoned completely and replaced by mostly solid dark, somber colors.

Capsule’s first day was hardly a mob scene and most exhibitors said that traffic was steady if not slightly slow. Several suspected this was due to the fact that yesterday was a holiday in the US, Dr. Martin Luther King Day.