With more than 40 shows in four days on the official show schedule, many off-site shows, presentations and show room business as well as the trade shows Tranoï and Rendez-Vous, Paris Men’s Fashion Week (18 – 20 January) was again packed with a great variety of collections from the avant-garde to classic menswear.

Tranoï’s main event again took place in the Palais de la Bourse where about 120 new luxe, denim and accessories brands and designers, among them Unity, April 77, Edun and Tillmann Lauterbach, were on show. In a second location nearby (Rue Herold) Tranoï offered a “show room” space for 15 international labels such as Obscur.

Rendez-Vous was this time located in two spaces (Espace Pierre Frey + Espace Commines), each hosting about 25 designer and progressive menswear collections including Material Boy, Hem and Haw, Devandervar and Unconditional.

Even though organizers do not announce official numbers the impression was that this season was slightly calmer than the preceding one. Some exhibitors suspected that the rising number of trade shows is leaving buyers clueless as to which to visit. Buyers from the US were especially notable for their absence, very likely due to the strong Euro.

Trendwise the days of cool, skinny rock’n’roll styles seem to be over: even dressed up silhouettes tend to be softer and show slightly more volume for a more relaxed attitude without drifting into mere sportswear. “Normality” in the sense of less extravaganza and exaggeration is the motto of many colllections, and ‘simple’ materials like cotton and wool were often in use. Technical fabrics, metallics or strong colors tended to be only occasional eyecatchers, whereas the main palette stuck mostly to dark blue, gray tones and black.

– Sabine Kühnl | Executive Editor