AWOL designers, supermodel guests and torrential rain were the main talking points of the third day of Japan Fashion Week. DressCamp, formed in 2002, has gained quite a reputation over the past few years, first under founding designer Toshikazu Iwaya and more recently with his successor Marjan Pejoski for sexy, ostentatious apparel. However, at tonight’s runway collection there was no sign of the Macedonian designer, the first European to take over the reigns of a Japanese house, and the show credits were corrected in a last minute rush to “designed by the DressCamp design team.” Unofficial word is that the designer is unlikely to return to the troubled label.

At Miharayasuhiro, supermodel Irina Lazareanu made a most welcome guest appearance on the runway. Along with the latest Japanese model-of-the-moment, Tao Okamoto, Lazareanu’s presence served to enliven a JFW crowd which has been subject to a constant downpour since the opening day on Tuesday.

Miharayasuhiro’s menswear collection, inspired by the 1950s American beat generation and William Burroughs in particular, was superb. A dark palette of long workwear shirts, truncated trousers and arty tailored jackets were enhanced by the accessories of designer Husam El Odeh. The womenswear on offer was equally as good. The collection, titled “Odyssey,” featured knits, leather, fur, boots and backpacks which reinforced the theme of a journey. Irina and Tao rocked the catwalk and for a moment Tokyo looked like the fashion hub the organizers have been dreaming of.

Japan Fashion Week concluded with a select group of brands looking to the future by embracing technology while others on the schedule appealed to an older generation. This was on the back of news from the Japanese Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry which said that as of 2012 it will cease to support JFW because, according to one source, “The government has already helped JFW for five years and JFW should be able to run itself.”

Tokyo fashion favorites Theatre Products streamed its show live tonight, while Central Saint Martins graduate Hidenobu Yasui will beam his 15-minute F/W 10 short film across the globe tomorrow online.

Beautiful people, led by Hidenori Kumakiri, asked the audience, who were prompted by some models, to put on 3D glasses which added to the futuristic atmosphere of the closing day. The collection, which took Haruki Murakami’s novel Norwegian Wood as its starting point, had a relaxed and hip 60s vibe while incorporating the designer’s quirky design philosophy of producing apparel that can be worn by the whole family. In Kumakiri’s world, for example, a full-length coat for a 10-year-old girl instantly becomes a short, perfectly fitted jacket for someone older.

It’s fortunate that some labels were looking to the future as today’s schedule had its fair share of brands aimed at the more mature, conservative customer. This caused JFW to lose its credibility within some sections of the Tokyo fashion community.

JFW’s hit collections: Miharayasuhiro, Factotum, Entoptic and beautiful people.

—Paul McInnes