London tradeshow Scoop International (31 Jan.-2 Feb.) celebrated its tenth outing this season, bringing together some 250 exhibitors across apparel, accessories, jewelry and lifestyle products. The show is a joy to visit, partly due to its inspiring Saatchi gallery setting, which spreads over three floors and 12 individual spaces. The venue will also play host to the next edition of Scoop London (21.23 Feb.), which coincides with London Fashion Week later this month.

Here, some of the collections that captured the mood of the season:

Humanoid – texture and jumbo knits
Dutch label Humanoid brought its distinctive lux-casual offering to Scoop International for the first time this season. For AW16, creative director and founder Sandra Harmsen has come up with some particularly strong oversize knits and outerwear, all crafted from materials evincing the gently worn look one has come to associate with the brand – and that others try to emulate.

Humanoid
Humanoid


J. Lindeberg – tweaked sneaker styles
The slip-on sneaker is going nowhere, though it’s evolving. J. Lindeberg has updated its bestseller shoe with a pointier toe for AW16. It’s been given yet another twist with tribal-themed embossing, synching it with the collection as a whole. The industry’s been abuzz with the news that founder Johan Lindeberg has returned to the label he left a decade ago. But those waiting for signs of his creative input will have to wait until SS17.

J. Lindeberg
J. Lindeberg


Chupi –nature’s calling
“Back to nature” seemed to chime with many brands at Scoop. Young Irish jewelry name Chupi harnessed the vibe with delicate pieces cast from a swan feather found along a Dublin riverbank. We recognized founder Chupi Sweetman immediately – we last met a decade ago in Dublin, when she had just started designing a womenswear line for Topshop. “One day I fell in love with all things sparkly and decided it was time to design pieces with a more lasting appeal, hence switching from clothing to jewelry,” she explained.

Chupi
Chupi


Ultra Tees – sustainable thinking
Many a Scoop exhibitor offered products with green credentials. Founded in 2012 by Angie Sam, Ultra Tee crafts its well-cut tops from organic cotton, applying prints inspired by the natural world. The pomegranate and horse chestnut motifs made for unusual and rather compelling prints. The ink used is of the eco friendly, water based variety.

Ultra Tee
Ultra Tee


Matt & Nat – ethical modernity
Canadian name Matt & Nat’s vegan accessories appeal to consumers with modernist and green inclinations. A slimline backpack caught our eye, though the style spectrum is broad enough to encompass anything from totes to clutches. The label’s eco leather is said to age well and the bag lining is crafted from 100% recycled plastic bottles.