The three-day ninth edition of Fashion Week by Berns Fashion Week by Berns came to a close on Feb. 3. Having recovered well from the scarce designer turnout of last season, this outing saw a 17-strong lineup of internationally celebrated names including Acne, Carin Wester, Cheap Monday, Hope, Whyred, Filippa K, Dr. Denim and Dagmar. Responding to the positive change, the mood in Stockholm was decidedly upbeat.

“Sweden and Swedish fashion is unique. We want Fashion Week by Berns to be synonymous with offering something special and Swedish, and joining all of our Swedish brands in the same program is the best way to highlight the existing creative spirit. We anticipate a future week involving more parts of the city, the public and shops. All international fashion week cities have their own special character, and so does Stockholm," said Ann Ringstrand, designer and founder of Hope.

As to what the Swedes have up their sleeves for FW 10, many collections displayed a grown-up, “real” silhouette underpinned by tailored aspects and the power of structural contrast. Carin Wester’s tactile jersey separates took the edge off the designer’s more starkly constructed pieces, whereas Filippa K’s shiny satin and metallic materials sat nicely against heavy wool and butter-soft leather. Cascading folds in combination with more utilitarian lines ruled at Whyred; and in terms of the color palette, a shot of burnt orange and a particularly attractive shade of blue provided a welcome diversion from the prevailing sea of gray and black. As a continuation of the rustic, sheepskin-laden aesthetic that dominated the menswear shows last month, Acne served up a collection where furry looks played a key role alongside chunky knits and sporty tendencies.

Getting in on the act alongside the bigger Scandi guns, students from Beckman’s School of Design hit the catwalk and presented 73 looks, ranging from flame-printed pieces and fishnet cardies to über simple trench coats and gravity-defying creations that could be described as the sartorial equivalent of Jackson Pollock’s art.

—Emma Holmqvist